Fish_Whisperer

I would need a trailer either way I go, once I start adding electronics and batteries... You peaked my curiosity when you brought up weight, so I did some comparing on the different models.... Intruder 12: 126lbs Raider 10: 145 lbs raider 8: 91 lbs

I would add my own seat, though that isn't a big issue with me. The intruder caught my eye by being a bit longer than the raider, which means more room for gear. I would be mounting a trolling motor and depth finder. I have a couple of ideas already on where the depth finder will mount.

I know this thread is reserved for the bass raider line, but seeing how this is also made by Pelican, I wanted to get some opinions on their Intruder model... http://www.pelicansport.com/en/products/fishing-boats/intruder-12 EDIT: I have also confirmed that I can get it brand new for $499.00

Tom, you prefer the ribbon tails over straight worms in this situation? Was thinking about 12" jelly worm t rigged... Do you suggest ribbon tail because the tail thumps and displaces water?

I have heard it suggested before to try big rattling jigs, any stock in that? If so, does anyone have any brand suggestions on a quality rattling jig?

My reaction was similar to the jokers you see on the deer hunting shows after shooting a nice buck... No drug could ever match the high I felt that day... once I got over thinking I was having a heart attack lol.

Quite a few times through my life... what makes me more sick is the amount of lures/rigs i've lost in one outing. Being a bank fisherman, I don't always have the luxury of going out and getting a stuck lure, and even when I feel like taking a swim, I can't always find them. Sometimes they're already broke off and other times they are too deep for my comfort. But to stick with the topic, I suppose around $30, a bbz1. Fishing braid and hooked up while fishing a dam, bass swam straight to an opening in the dam, line rubbed on the rough concrete and got cut. I was more ticked at losing the fish, I knew it was a good one.

Say what?

Ah, understood there!

This thread has too much potential to go to the graveyard.... So Slade House posted a pic of a "brushpile" that was best of the four in the pic... Any ideas on how to save money when building this? I estimate the black corrugated pipe used is 4-6" in diameter, my local lowes sells 100' of 4" for 70ish dollars, and it would take 100' to do it.

Quite a few of my 5lb plus bass last year... caught on a powerbait curly tail grub... it was white.

How would you make it uncomfortable?

The only thing I would change to the lower right design, Is I would buy some pvc pipe that is larger in diameter than the pipe used in the frame, and cut it into 12" spacers that would fit onto the pvc frame everytime i added a new black pipe. Basically spacing out the distance between black pipes so they aren't just laying on top of each other. Edit: sorry for crude paint drawing, but here is the sketch with changes I suggested...

Right. Wonder why? I assumed that bass would want a habitat that they could hide in, and come out to ambush prey???

My main goal is DD bass. I am very close, but so so far away lol. I normally would say it is my only goal, but I have found myself trying to use jigs more often, as I have never used them until last year. With that said, my secondary goal is to catch a 5lb + bass on a jig.

My catch rate increased when I got the idea to get a cast net and catch some baitfish in waters I frequent. It showed me exactly what colors I needed to look for my crankbaits and swimbaits. Try to match the size if possible.

Nasty.... them Gizzard shad.

These are not my designs, but since you asked about ideas, here are some I found using google...

So here was the design I was talking about in Slade House's thread... as said before, two 55 gal plastic drums, tops cut out, bottoms cut out yet leaving an outer ring on the bottom so you have room to bolt the bottoms together. Then lots of big holes cut out in the sides Like this....

Something like a couple of 55 gal plastic drums with the tops and bottoms gutted and bolted together with large holes throughout the sides?

Do you have the crawfish and the bass in the same aquarium? I wonder why the bass aren't eating them? Edit: just reread that they were still baby bass... carry on.

Paul and RoLo entered my list of sticks who know the big bass awhile back... Good information and discussion comes from them. In my experience, the dynamics of big bass change subtly between different bodies of water. While a lot of the behaviors stay the same, there are a few that change. Say you are fishing a small pond. You may not run into a school of big bass because there maybe only one or two truly big ones in the pond. A larger reservoir may have schools or aggregates because the habitat is conducive to it. EDIT: The above may just be a bunch of bs... Whose to say there isn't a pond that is full of big bass?

If something got as far as to warrant putting machines like that in big box stores, then I would think so.

That would be a game changer. You'd see test machines at bass pros everywhere to get your personalized sensitivity rating, similar to the dr scholls foot mapping machines lol.

You could setup a device that would run a test to determine the most sensitive rod on paper, but I am in agreement with others that it boils down to the end user and their bodies' ability to interpret the signals sufficiently enough to warrant having the most sensitive rod on the market, custom or otherwise. In the spirit of discussion, I applaud Ghoti for being willing to think outside the box and apply his resources to getting some data if time allows. Here is my take on what could be done to gather data (only a HS graduate so my thinking may be a bit simpler than others.)... A device could be built that would hold a completed rod by the grip that a fisherman would typically hold. Sensors would be placed on the part that holds the rod as the last line of signals would be at the grip before being computed by the human body. So.... have a device that attaches to the end of the line, and will pull line taut very quickly up until a certain point (maybe 2lbs of pressure) at which point the device is tripped and lets the line go, or just goes completely slack. Where I am lost at, is how to compute or translate the data the machine gathers into a useful figure for the average angler. Also, for this to be as objective as possible, absolutely everything would have to be the same for each test other than the completed rod itself; same reel, same exact amount of line, levelwind in same place during testing, same pressure on the line before initiating test with the 2 lb "bite".