Bassun

@volzfan59 Did you figure it out?

I, admittedly, didn't read all of the comments - but I literally just went through this discussion a week ago. It doesn't matter what line, rod, reel etc. you are using. NONE! If something feels funny, set the hook. Period. End of statement. If you feel like you set the hook into a log, hold that pressure until you are POSITIVE it is not a fish. Worst case you set too early, or spook a fish yanking a limb around, or lose / break gear - it happens. But EVERY SINGLE SET you attempt - you are gaining experience and feel. Now as for feel, eyes closed works. You said you are fishing a lot of plastics. Here is what I would suggest. Focus on feeling the bottom. Is it rock? Mud? Grass? Is it small pebbles or larger chunk? Are there big rocks and logs down there too? Start letting your mind draw a picture of what the lure is doing and what the bottom looks like based on what it feels like. If you can see what the bottom looks like even better! Try holding your rod at different COMFORTABLE angles while you feel the bottom. You will find the one (or ones) that suites you best. As you get used to "seeing" what you lure "feels" - those odd feelings will start to stand out more. Like if you are on a pea gravel bottom and there is no grass or anything else but small rock, and suddenly your feeling goes "soft" -- you know that is most likely a fish. In grass, that same feeling would not stand out as much. But focus on building a mental image of what the bait is doing, and what the bottom composition is based on feel -- and in a few months you will be well ahead of the game! And if you feel like you are not making enough contact to feel the bottom well --- slow down. Honestly, fishing plastics "slow down" is almost always a good piece of advice anyway lol. Good luck and tight lines!

So here - you cannot find a used boat at a decent price. You cannot find late models at dealers, heck - you cannot find much of any inventory at dealers. A few conversations have drilled in the idea that they are following car dealership leads and do not plan on carrying a big inventory going forward. Kiss those last year model and off-season discounts goodbye. Those I've gotten to talk about it basically said they spend less, and make more by not keeping much in the marina. Less overhead, less taxes, and they don't have to drop prices to move inventory. People are getting used to the new approach so they do not seem pressured to change back to the "old way". They've, rightly, been able to "blame" it on Corona - but now that we have accepted that as ok it seems they are not looking to change back. I don't blame them... it's a business and they are there to make money. Maybe over time it will change back, but I don't see it anytime soon. Just IMO...

Look it's simple on my boat. Motors on, life jackets are on. Period. I don't care if you like it or not, it just is not worth the risk. Now once we are no longer running, then it's your call - wear one or take it off. If something happens while underway there's just no good reason to not have a jacket on. I'll be honest - I hate my inflatable (one of the cheaper BPS ones). It rubs my neck and just doesn't sit comfortably. It randomly fired last year in the garage and I haven't even replaced the can to rearm it. I may not. I have a few other life jackets (I always grab cheap ones at yard sales when I see them), and 99% of them I like better. My favorite is not one for active watersports, but a "fishing" style and is super comfortable. It basically feels like I'm wearing a fishing vest, only it's a life jacket. I hook it to my lanyard and it stays right there in my seat when I'm not running. Takes about 5 seconds to pick it up and snap the two buckles. Really I just put it on as I'm setting down - it's a habit like putting on a seatbelt. I would much rather have it on and not need it, then need one and not have it...

So I am not pro, but I have had my used 99' Skeeter SS 90 16'2" with a Yamaha for a couple of decades now. Here are some of my opinions. First, boat prices are crazy right now. I don't know if or when it will change to be honest. I think we are seeing a shift in how marina's etc keep inventory and it seems like we are going to see fewer and fewer new models on the "lot" - which also means we are going to see fewer end of year / last model year discounts. It also means used boats are going to continue to come at a premium. AKA - we are going to pay more now and have more trouble finding a "good deal" now than we have in a long time. I feel your pain as I am looking to upgrade myself. Used: You have to be so careful. I got lucky and bought mine from a friend who was meticulous with the boat and got a screaming deal. That is a great option, and one of the few ways I really consider a used boat that isn't from a dealer you absolutely whole heartedly trust. If you go that route, spend the money to have a mechanic check out the boat. Something to consider with buying used, if you don't have the cash in hand to pay for it outright and need to finance - your loan terms will not be as good. Higher interest rates and shorter maximum length usually. May not matter in your case, but it is something to consider. I will say that I absolutely love my little boat - if it is me fishing or me +1 angler. For two people, it's fine. It runs about 40-45 depending on the prop and load I have on it. It's small so it runs a bit rough, and in "big" water you are in for a ride. That said, I quickly learned that it is too small for fishing 3 comfortably. 18' for me is the minimum size I would want if I thought I would ever have more than 2. The 90 Yamaha has been fantastic. Only issues I have had is needing to replace the impeller, which is scary the first time you do it, but not a big deal once you have done it; and the electronic choke (which I think is in my switch to be honest). Rock solid and would put this same motor on another boat in an instant. I am actually thinking of keeping this rig after I get a new boat and doing a pontoon rebuild later and use this motor for that, but that's a different topic. If you can ride along or otherwise run other boats - that's, IMO, the best bet for finding what you like. But if you cannot - I would look for something that firstly fit's in your garage. Folding tongue will help, but measure your floor with the doors closed to make 100% sure of exactly how much room you have - it would suck to end up with 6 inches too much boat. Honestly though, with your budget at 15k, I'm really worried that you are going to struggle to find what you are looking for, unless you know someone looking to unload a used boat. Tracker aluminum is probably going to be your best bet new, like GM4511 said - and what I would suggest - but finding a new boat rigged for 15K is going to be a challenge I'm afraid. Good luck!

I have an ascend. I got it because it was the best priced sit on top I could find. For me - it works just fine. Rarely used, and mostly sits around. I did add an anchor kit and few do-dads, and when I have fished it I liked it. But - it is heavy - and you will get your butt wet lol. Seat is horrible. It's certainly not like the little yaks I've used before that are a breeze to pick up and move around - she's heavy. It's a little unnerving to stand on, but it did fine. I just couldn't justify the cost of the more expensive ones. IF I were to yak fish alot, I would upgrade. Once in a blue moon - it's fine IMO. I, knowing what I know now - would have looked much harder in the used market first.

It took me for ever to find mine. It was hidden in the middle of a bunch of wires right at the engine.

Check around the motor for an inline fuse. Really dig around in the wiring. I did the same thing once during a night tournament. Tried swapping batteries in the dark and reversed the leads. POW! Nothing. It was a mess figuring it all out, but for the electrical - I found an inline fuse in the wiring right at the motor which had done its job. As for raising the motor, there is usually a hydraulic release screw (or manual tilt/trim screw) whatever you want to call it. Just find that, and you can release the motor to trim manually. Most I believe are turned counter clockwise to release. I figure you will find the fuse and not need to manually tilt anyway. Good luck!

Hey folks -- I've never ran a big tin boat like the griz 2072 or crestline 2070's etc. on the lake. I've ridden some smaller jon's on the river, and they beat me to death. How do they ride in normal, say 1-2ft chop, conditions? I have a 16ft skeeter and it's time to upgrade in size. But, I want to have something I can also run in the river so aluminum is the next stop. I kind of figure getting something like that with a small draft would be the better bet in the river, but I just don't have any experience with them so wanted to ask the folks here who do. The plan would be a side console, and rig it just like a bass boat, only have twice as much space and 4 times the carrying capacity that I have now. Looks like the 150 merc on it would push around a big load with no problems. Any insight?

So apparently a proper soft reset seems to have been the ticket. Cut power supply (switch or unplug) reconnect. Press the "pages" button and continue to hold it in, while still holding the pages button, power on the unit. Continue to hold the pages button through out, and for an additional 15+ seconds. Once done, it started the basic set up questions (language, knots vs MPH, english, etc). Following that the sonar appears to be working (hard to tell in the garage, but - it at least has some info scrolling at the top vs just a solid white screen before. Hopefully this worked and helps someone else down the road.

Hey folks - running a new Ti2 9, and things work fine except for the normal sonar. Running an Active Imaging 3 in 1 transducer, downscan, sidescan both work fine (charts, etc do too) but when I try to use regular sonar nothing happens. It is just a white screen like it has been stopped (but it hasn't and doesn't say "stopped"). I've tried stopping and restarting, resetting sonar settings, and power cycling and fiddled with every option I could find, but nothing. I did some google fu, and found there was an issue with an older SW version where the sonar would show a version of 0.0.0, but this shows 5.4.0. I also read to update the overall software, but it is current with 20.0.1. I assume there is some goofy setting that I'm not thinking about, any ideas?

Hey - quick question that I cannot seem to find an answer to here or on the C-Maps site. If you subscribe to Genesis, and download a composition map, is it only usable while you have an active subscription, or once you have it you have it and are good to go from then on? I get you would not be able to update your own maps, etc. and they have the free Social Map. I just cannot figure out if you can only use the composition maps with an active subscription (IE if I do a month only, then head to the lake 5 weeks later - it's unusable) or if once you have them downloaded you can use them forever. Anyone know? Thanks!

LOL - that is exactly me. I feel a good tick or whatever, something in that set comes out automatically. If its just a lite nip, followed by something better - my speech reflects it lol. After a successful hook set, "There we go!" seems to pop out a lot. BUT - my favorite saying is about mid-fight when I anxiously say, "Get the net!" Doesn't happen nearly enough...

Nope, just like taking pics of line and contemplating lol

FC a must? None. I use fluorocarbon leaders a lot. I run straight fluorocarbon for ultralights in gin clear water. Either could be replaced with something else IMO.

I was kind of thinking about the stiffness last night, initially I was thinking meh probably won't notice much but then I thought about exactly what you mentioned...wind knots and wraps. Your observation makes perfect sense and I can see it playing out that way. The last few years I've been running KK Super Power 15, and didn't have many issues with wind knots until the line was ready to be replaced - and even then only when I was bombing out a spoon max distance was it consistent. BUT, and I think this may be key, I have a habit of stopping the line with my fingers on my spinning gear (which I use primarily) much like one stops a baitcaster. My nephew had a ton of wind knots on the same gear just skipping flukes and stuff. I bet your spot on with the 832 naturally being better in that regard. I suspect its smaller diameter also helps with how you noticed it cutting through the water. It will be fun to have all 4 rigged up next year so I can see them all in action at the same time!

I would say premium is tougher than tournament. I'm not sure which is tougher between back country and premium. I have only ran BC on ultralight rigs at 4lb and premium only at 10lbs. I haven't had any issue out of either or tried either in opposite roles. That said, for spinning gear if 8 had to choose only one and get both 4lb and 10lb I would probably get back country. I was impressed with the 4lb that much. I actually debated going back to it over flouro this year for my ultra-lights but then found Seaguar Invixz on sale at basically half price and picked it up for this year to try. I think you will be happy with either to be honest. And at the prices they have you could pick up both and see what works best for you. Good luck!

Thanks I agree 100% on the stiffness changing asap. Didn't really plan on considering it until it felt so different. Honestly, I would have expected the super slick to be the stiffest when I thought about it, and that fits what Dens228 had noticed. To be candid, I suspect I will notice little difference between the 4 in actual use. It was just something to piddle with lol

Nice. Never tried it. It hurt just buying the Sufix and PP super slick lol.

@sideways2 I actually really like Ande. I used to run it for my mono before I started using braid as a mainline. I think it handles well and casts well, and stands up well to punishment. It does have stretch, of course, but not as bad as say Stren does. Some people complained about memory, but I personally have not had issues with line memory unless you get way down on the spool and it has been locked in place for a long time. Think poles you rarely use or backing line that rarely comes off the spool. Now that said, I have primarily only used their "Premium" line. I used to always get green or clear, but decided this year to pick up the pink (no real reason other than to have something different). If they made their premium in the yellow they use for the Tournament line, I would have went yellow. Regardless, if I were running just mono, I would have probably kept the green. I've used the "tournament" line, and to me it felt a bit more limp at the same test, but casts better and if I remember correctly had even less stretch. I actually really liked it, but it is designed for IFGA records and breaks no greater than the listed number. So it's kind of like running 8lb mono instead of 10lb, for example. You won't get that little extra umph out of the line - she will snap. BUT - that is kind of the point. I used the Back Country one time. I really liked it for my ultralight - but decided to run strait fluorocarbon for my 4lb stuff (I fished a lot of gin clear water with it, figured it may help...not entirely sure to be honest). I have, however, landed a carp of about 20lbs on the 4lb Ande Back Country - I was sweating it but it held up fine to getting banged around on stuff as the fish ran. Lots of fish were caught following that adventure - no issues. Never tried any of their other stuff, but considering the number of IFGA records landed on Ande line - I think it's a safe bet that it is a consistent and reliable line. I was a huge Spiderwire fan for years, then tried Ande and never went back. There may be better lines that I have not used, but for the price and consistent quality, I really have no desire to try something different.

Here is a better color version, while not exact and of course will depend on your monitor. Sufix -> Po wer Pro -> Daiwa -> Kast King I hit enter a little too soon, the green is not quite that vibrant in real life. (at least on my monitor) The rest, are pretty close.

Hey folks -- I have been debating on what type of braid I want to run for next year, and instead of just picking one I wanted to try a mix over the year and see what fits me and my style. I figured while doing so I would make some notes about the lines and share some observations with y'all. I wont get into the specifics of the build out, but Mono backer, braid main, and a leader will be the general setup. This is observations of the braid though, not the setup. I chose four braids, all in 15lb test. Power Pro Super 8 Slick V2 "4lb diameter" Hi-Vis Yellow Sufix 832 15lb .22mm Hi-Vis Yellow Daiwa J-Braid x8 15lb .19mm Chartreuse KastKing Mega 8 15lb .18mm In the comparison shots you will also notice: KastKing Super Power 40lb .30mm Yellow Ande Premium Mono 10lb pink First I noted the color. They all seem as though they will show up well on the water. The Sufix and KastKing had more of an orange color, the Daiwa a nice bright green, and the PP a pale yellow. To be fair, I'm not sure that it was not an older spool of PP based on the shape of the rubber band on it. It seemed to be deteriorating - but may have just been an old rubber band. It reminded me of the color of last years KastKing Super Power Yellow towards the end of a season. That said, it certainly should show up just fine. Next I looked at the diameters. Now this is slightly subjective as different colors will appear to be thinner or thicker. But observationally, the Power Pro appeared to be the thickest, followed by the KastKing, then Daiwa with the Sufix appearing to be the thinnest of all. Again, all are 15lb test. I was slightly surprised as the Sufix is reported at .22mm the thickest of all listed. (PP says 4lb diameter and I could not easily find a stated mm diameter to compare) I next started comparing perceived smoothness. Just running the line between my fingers. Here the Power Pro stood out above the rest. It was not quite as smooth as the Ande Mono, but surprisingly close! The Daiwa was also very smooth, but not quite as good. The Sufix had more texture, and felt noticeably stiff. The Mega 8 was the most textured of all four. Again based on feel on the fingers. After noting how stiff the Sufix felt, I tried to determine stiffness of the rest. It was hard to really make a judgement on, but I would say the Sufix was by far the stiffest, the Mega 8 followed while the Power Pro then Daiwa rounded out being the most supple. I tried to take some macro pictures of the line, but found it amazingly difficult to get them all into focus at once because of the razor thin depth of field to get a tight macro shot. The images are not great, but I think give a general idea of the lines up close. The color tone is off in this image, but I was trying to isolate the texture of the lines. From left to right: KastKing 40lb 4 carrier Ande Mono 10lb - could not get it to focus at all. Then the four lines I'm comparing. Sufix -> Power Pro -> Daiwa -> KK Mega 8 Based on the image, it would appear the power pro (#4) is the thickest, followed by the KK (#6). The Daiwa (#5) appears to be a bit thicker than the thinnest of all, the Sufix (#3). This met my original observation. Smoothness, however, is a bit surprising. Looking at the image, the Daiwa (#5) appears to be the most uniformly shaped of all. I suspect the additives in the Power Pro (#4) mixed with a very uniform wind make it feel smoother. The Sufix (#3) and KK (#6) appear to be the least uniform and have the most felt texture as well. Based on the observations, and image I tried to rate the lines based on design with smoothness, suppleness, and diameter being the only factors. The thinnest two were the Sufix then the Daiwa, KK then Power Pro were the thickest. The smoothest were the Power Pro then the Daiwa, followed by Sufix then KK. Suppleness or stiffness (which being too supple can arguably be an issue in itself at times) came in with: Daiwa then Power Pro as the most supple, then KK and Sufix being the stiffest. Giving 4 points for "best" and 1 for "worst" the scores would be: Daiwa 10 Power Pro 8 Sufix 7 KastKing 5 Of course, that is purely based on non-scientific testing, did not consider tensile strength or knot holding or any real-world testing, abrasion resistance, life expectancy or anything else. Literally just looking at and feeling the line. Basically I was surprised how differently they all felt and decided to dig into it a little. More of a shared observation then a test or actual ranking - I only did so since I had ranked them in each category lol.

So got word from the pros, complete with exact part numbers! Thanks Russell's! So with the Hook series here is what you would need to run the HDI transducer (giving you 2d and Down Scan). 7-pin-xdcr-adapter-to-hook2 (Part Number 000-14068-001)This is the adapter cable from the Hook to a 7 pin transducer: $29.99 Lowrance-HDI-Skimmer-83-200-455-800-T-M-Transduce-p/000-10976-001-low- 7 pin HDI transducer $119.99 hdi-trolling-motor-adaptor-for-skimmer -Adapter Cup: $19.95

Ok, well, I emailed Russell's and just flat out asked them what the best solution is. I'll update this once I get feedback so that if someone else is looking they can hear what they said.

LOL - ok, maybe I did have the cables right in my initial post. Maybe the better question isn't where to find the HDI even, but what is the best solution? Right now, I'm kind of leaning towards the 83/200 with the blue connector, which I think is the 7 pin, and a 7 pin to Hook adapter. OR the one from Europe. If all else fails, I could just get the splitshot, but I've heard the HDI's are so much better, I'd rather not go that way. For those who have upgraded to the HDI on the Reveals, what did you do?