new2BC4bass

You should come and work for the company I work for. Previous maintenance guy always had extra parts left over after fixing a machine. Usually just screws. Machines still ran.

Only if your are talking about the Tatula. Check out the real Daiwa SV103. I got my Bantam MGL new for less.

Depends on the manufacturer. Abu or St. Croix I'd opt for the heavier lure. Falcon or Phenix and I'd opt for the lighter lure.

As one of those guys who has purchased more reels than he will ever need, my Helios SX is still sitting in its box. Looking forward to feedback from actual users of the reel. I will say this...I have 2 Helios Airs and a Helios (2013 green trim model, not blue of the TCS). The Helios took a bit longer to dial in. On the Air I set spool tension and brakes and started bombing casts with no problem. Was amazed at the distance of my first cast with the Helios Air. EDIT: Lots of nice reels to try if you don't mind used. My first Patriarch XT (blue model) is spooled with 40# braid and used mostly for unweighted 10" ribbontail worms on a 3/0-5/0 hook cast into lily pads. The only reels I can cast with fewer brakes on are the Magforce 3D reels. If I remember correctly, I have 2 on inside and the outside dial at one. Find an old Carbonlite (gold color) or Prolite. Not used a Prolite, but would love to. I have a pair of Carbonlites that I learned to cast #5 Shad Raps with. I can do as well with them as my tuned and upgrade TD-Z 105H. Unfortunately that probably says more about my ability than the reels.

Look for a used Pixy or Prolite. Don't know about the Prolite, but the Pixy is a small reel and you should be able to find one in good shape within your price range.

! quit fishing for 23 years after being in this area for 2 years. Fishing sucks real bad unless you have a boat and even then it's bad unless you have a boat that you can use on the Delaware River. Decided to get back into it in March '09. If I fished to catch fish, I would have quit again by April '09. I go to get out and enjoy the weather and try out new and new-2-me gear. I enjoy casting....a lot. Catching a fish is an unexpected (very unexpected) bonus...........but always welcome. Fish are returned for the live worm fishermen to keep. If fishing were good here, I'd have a lot fewer rods and reels. New gear is what keeps me going out.

Lots of good reels in that price range, but it appears you want to stick with the top two companies. Don't know if you will find a Bamtam MGL for $230. I'd lean towards the Tatula SV as well, but I lean towards Daiwa a bit more than other companies anyway.

When I bought my first braid, it was suggested I not go below 40#. I bought 40# Sufix Performance. Loses color fairly quickly, but that does not affect performance. Never a problem with it digging in, and it was on the reel that I took with me to Florida every year for awhile when going on vacation. Was used for casting worms back into the lily pads. The MP is the MG replacement. The MG is a fine reel so I would expect nothing less of the MP. I know nothing about that rod, but if it is as NYWayfarer says...a TP-1 made for Academy, then it should be a good rod as the TP-1 gets very good reviews. I think you will enjoy that combo for a long time to come.

Trey, what fluoro are you using to get the low stretch? Not all fluoro is equal. Check out TackleTour's fluorocarbon showdown part 1. The picture showing how fluoro frays when stretched to a breaking point is exactly how the fluoro I bought looked. Had to cut off an extra 2-3 feet. Then read the fluorocarbon showdown part 2 to find out how much fluoro stretches. Some fluoros stretched worse than the Trilene XL they used for a base comparison. BTW, XL will stretch more than some monos. I am constantly amazed at the number of people that say fluorocarbon has no stretch. Apparently they have never snagged it bad enough that they had to break it. That will change your mind in a hurry. I've read what dodeguy said before. Also a friend of mine (ex-tournament fisherman) told me when Spiderwire Ultracast Ultimate Monofilament first came out that it was the best mono he had ever used. Had some memory so he didn't use over 8# on a spinning reel.

More a fact than a concept. Baitcasters hate jerkiness. I didn't start using a roll cast (not a fly fishing roll cast) until later in the game. I like to suggest people learning to use a baitcast reel use a side arm roll cast. This avoids the stop and start at the end of the back stroke. Which in turn smooths out your casting stroke. Which in turn helps eliminate some of the backlashes. There are times I can't use the roll cast. That is when I am more likely to get an overrun or backlash. Especially if I stop shorter than I had planned on the back stroke. When this happens I sometimes overcompensate on the forward movement...jerking it forward...not giving the tip time to reach its furthest rear position. BAD.

How does it cast now? I also have a Gen I STX. Been an excellent reel for me. BTW, that 5001C casts like a champ now.

No I or K. A, B and E with an older Exsence DC thrown in. Did pick up a Scorpion 71HG last year and a Bantam MGL about 2 months ago. Not used the MGL yet and the 71HG only once so far. I've read really good things about the Tournament Pro LFS. Absolutely don't need any more reels, but may have to break down and buy one of these.

I have 9 brands of baitcast reels. I lean towards Daiwa as my favorite brand. However, I enjoy them all and have favorites is other brands as well.

Abu Garcia Ambassadeur 5001C 40 some years ago. BUT no Internet and I didn't know anyone using (or having used) a baitcast reel so it quickly got set aside. In 2009 I decided to get back into fishing, but wanted to try a low profile baitcast reel. Got a Fuego on closeout from TW. I now have 3 of them.

You can practice some thumb control while sitting in front of a TV. Practice thumbing the spool as the lure drops. This is how I learned I had much better control with my off hand..the left thumb. The right was more like a light switch. It was either on or off. For the longest time I had to cast left handed when I was using a reel that wanted to backlash a lot. It took a lot of time to 'educate' my right thumb. More practice would have shortened that time. I get fluffs as well. I don't change any settings unless they are consistent. As you said, they are gone (most times) before the end of the cast. You are correct in thinking that whippy or overpowered casts aren't optimal for magforce. When I was trying to use a 1/4 oz. lure on my Sol (for the first time), it was backlashing a lot. I finally got ticked off and started throwing harder. Backlashes gone. At the same time trying to overpower a cast requires diligence on my part. Like you my brakes are set in the 8-10 range for reels that go to 20. Brakes are set in the 6-8 range for those that go to 10. I do keep spool tension very loose as I feel higher brakes give better distance than more spool tension. I fish from shore so distance is a factor for me. There is an exception. Reels that I have had tuned (and often upgraded) usually require less braking. Also less force on the cast. On some I can drop down to the 3-4 range. Took a while, but I finally reached that place where I feel I am doing well with the right thumb. Finally got it to the place where it no longer acts like a light switch.

I've mentioned it before...buy the reel that interests you the most. Not used either so I can't express an opinion on them. Own other (older) models from both companies and have been satisfied with them. I am just going to throw out some rod suggestions. Again...no personal experience with these particular models. TW has the Ark Viper on sale for $60...a $100 rod. The Aird X is highly regarded ($55). Tatula XT. Abu Vendetta or Veritas. Fury. Bucoo SR. HMG. iRod Fiber. Lew's TP-1. Reviews of the TP-1 Black say it is even better ($30 more). Okuma EVX. Okuma Helios mini guide is on sale at TW for $100...List $185. Curado or SLX. I only own 2 of those models. I have several HMGs and I like them. I bought an Okuma Helios 7' M that I liked well enough to go buy a second. Unfortunately this was a few years ago and I paid more than the $100 TW is currently asking. TackleTour gave the Helios a 'GREAT' rating. http://tackletour.com/reviewokumaheliosrod.html There are also reviews of the Helios on this site. Good luck with your search. There are plenty of good options in your price range. If you would like a more expensive rod, consider something like the Fuego CT, SLX, Lew's Speed Spool LFS or look into the used reel market. That would open up another whole list of rods.

60# yellow Fins Original PRT on one. 45# blue Fins 40G on one.

Unfortunately TW no longer has those rods. I did buy two Ark Tharp series when TW had them on sale a couple months ago. I've also picked up 9 used rods since this posting. Pretty much reached a point where it will require a rod severely peaking my interest for me to buy another. Wouldn't be so bad if I were a young man. Don't know how many years I have left in which I will be able to use what I have. TW does have the Tactical and Tactical Elite on sale, but not as much off as what I had been looking at.

My first baitcast reel was a Abu 5001C. Didn't know anyone that used (or had used) a baitcast reel. No Internet. Set it aside and never used it again after a couple tries with it. This was over 40 years ago. When I got back into fishing in '09 I decided I want to try one of those newfangled low profile baitcast reels. Now I hardly ever touch a spinning reel even though I have purchased a few since getting back into fishing. Also gave the 5001C another try. Amazing what a little knowledge can do. It casts great now...although I hate the tiny handle on it. If you are anything like me, it won't be long before your baitcast reels outnumber your spinning reels.

Personally I much prefer the looks of the original Type R to the CT Type R. Size of the original doesn't bother me. Never handled a CT. I think you are going to like the reel.

As you no doubt already know the SV will have better control...especially with lighter lures or for skipping. If you aren't looking for a reel for that, then the 100 will be fine. The 100 should provide a bit more casting distance as the SV spool achieves better control by applying a little more braking force. Many people skip and cast light lures without an SV spool. Just takes a bit more practice. I've never handled a 100. I do have the Tat SV. I like it a lot. Nice looking reel.

You can find a BG2000 or BG2500 right at or slightly under $100. Three or four years ago I gave my brother-in-law a previous model Revros that he is still using. I admit to liking Daiwa spinning reels. There are several choices for $100 or less. I've not used an Okuma spinning reel, but have 4 of their casting reels and really like them. Let's not forget Shimano reels.

Didn't know I needed a dedicated rod. I've used several of my rods for plastics.

It is listed as an All Purpose. Wondering what lures you find works the best with it. I have several 'all purpose' rods. Actually versatility was a determining factor for most of the rods I've bought. Especially when I first got back into fishing. Thinking I might start dedicating some of these 'all purpose' rods to a couple specific lures. What can I say? Getting cabin fever sitting here while the weather is warming up.

Haven't bought any since the crap hit the fan, but bought one not long befoe that. Took 5 days to arrive from time of purchase.