new2BC4bass

As previously stated, difference in distance should be negligible. I use an overhead cast for maximum accuracy, but normally am casting with a side arm roll cast. It's possible my overhead cast could get a few feet more, but I would have to be someplace like a park to verify that. I fish from shore so distance is often important to me.

Glad you posted this. I've got a Scorpion 71HG. Had it out once. Was taking a while to get dialed in. Now I know why. I only set the outside dial. All 4 internal brakes were on. Now only 2 are on. Will see how it goes next time I take it out. I imagine not having to cast it so hard to make my normal casting distance will eliminate many of the overrun problems I had initially.

I'd guess 'no'. I was out about a week ago practicing my casting. One rod 8# mono, other 12# mono. Using spinnerbaits on both. Wind blew both lines, but I didn't pay attention to whether or not one got blown more than the other. I once picked up a used reel that came with old 65# braid. It was starting to separate. That stuff floated like a kite.

You've been watching too many tournament fishing shows. Or using a broom handle for a baitcasting rod. I use 12# mono/copolymer on MH rods and 8# on Medium or ML casting rods. I might skate a dink across the surface, but never a fish of any decent size. I like the fight, too. I've read that fighting a fish for an extended period is bad for the fish. I release mine. I prefer they live afterwards. I seriously doubt the fish consider it fun even if their pea brain could consider such things. OP, I grew up on spinning. Got into baitcast reels when I got back into fishing at 61 after a 23 year hiatus. All I've got to say is.....BE CAREFUL. I now have a nice down payment on a bass boat invested in baitcast rods and reels.

OP did have gears exploding. Matt, thanks for the post (and your service), but do an old fart a favor. Use a few paragraphs. Much easier for my old eyes to follow.

Definitely...we me at the wheel. First I can't cast a 1/8 oz. lure with a baitcast reel and if I could I don't think I would ever try with my 5001C. I have that spooled with 17# mono and mounted on a 6'6" MHF rod that is rated 1/2 - 2 oz. I was 61 before I got my first low profile. Never used the 5001C after getting it because I didn't know anyone that had one...or had ever used one. No Internet. Had no idea how to set it up so it got put away. Cast great now, tho. I've tried a 1/8 oz. spinnerbait, but distance and accuracy were both poor. That was a few years ago. Maybe my thumb has improved enough to try again. But it will be with a Pixy or Scorpion 4x4 SVS. You are one of those guys who could cast 1/16 oz. with these reels. Disgusting.

Congratulations on the new combos. My 6'10" MHF Tatula weighs 3.63 oz. I think you will love the rod. I see you have been using a baitcast reel since you were 8. You haven't put much information in your profile so I don't know if you are 18 or 80. I am going to assume you are very good with one. You shouldn't have any problems with the weights of the T-rigs you want to use. I've seen a buddy cast lighter than that on a MHF St. Croix, and they also fish heavy.

Don't know your price range, but even a used Excense DC is on the high end for me. I've seen Magforce 3D reels for less than $150. More in my price range.

Try a Magforce 3D or older Excense DC. Not sure about the SV, but I will take BaitFinesse's word for it. I've got a couple SV spooled reels, but don't recall if I've tried them with no thumb. I know for sure I have the other 2 reels I mentioned.

Okay. I now see where your username came from. That thing is as big as one. Nice!

6' Lightning spinning rod. Over 40 years old. Has caught more fish than any of my new (and more expensive) rods. Think it is a ML as rating is something like 1/8-3/8 oz. Plenty of flex. Haven't used a spinning rod in years, but won't ever get rid of this one just in case. It has been used with small Beetlespins and Roostertails for the vast majority of time. Hope I have it with me if I ever get into a bunch of crappies again.

Nice combo! Yeah. My 6' Berkley Lightning and Penn 430SS were expensive...to me...back in the old days. Still have it. Still like it. Will never spend as much per rod or reel as what yours cost, but I now have reels that cost me over $250. My most expensive rod (my cost) was $185 used. Never ever would have considered spending that much a few years ago on any rod or reel. Two rods were the most I had 40 some years ago. Today I couldn't possibly take all my combos with me. Life is good. But....it would be so much better if I lived in an area were catching fish most days was a given.

Line size on the reel is more to let you know its capacity. You can use pretty much any line size you want on it. None of my casting reels mention 8# line, but most of my reels on M and ML rods carry that size line. I know nothing about Japanese line ratings. 12# mono/co-polymers go on my MH rods. I wasn't thinking about it before, but I have to agree with Bassman. Learning to use a baitcast reel with light lures (1/4 oz.) is not a good way to learn. Since that rod is what you have to use then stick with lures on the high side to start out. 3/8 oz. (10.6g) or a bit more. A compact lure will also help.

Just wanted to say to the forum. Someone else will need to make that list. Most of my rods were purchased for versatility. I did buy a 7'4" HF for frogs. A 6'7" L for Ned Rigs. And have a few crankbait rods from 6'6" to 7'6". Recently purchased a 7’2” Custom Lamiglas Infinity 864 that will be dedicated to jigs because it is probably my most sensitive rod. That is about the extent of my lure specific rods.

Lots of knowledge here. Be sure to check out all the articles and tackle reviews. I've not used the Fuego. Really like my BG. I am a fan of Daiwa spinning reels. I prefer no bigger than a 2500 because spinning is light line for me. Plus I don't like bigger spinning reels. That is why I tried a baitcast reel when I got back into fishing. Never looked back. BTW, the rod number should not have a 'C' after it, but an 'SF'. Otherwise you will wind up with a casting rod. I ordered a spinning rod late one night. When it arrived, it was a casting rod. Guess why. There was one letter difference between the casting and spinning model. Needless to say I don't know if there was a picture of the rod. That would have been a dead giveaway....had I been paying attention.

Would a Fenwick ET Smallmouth 6’3” M-MF work? I was going to try it with a tuned and upgraded Daiwa SV105HSL. But I could try it with a few other reels. How do dual brake reels work for skipping?

It is a good thing I quit fishing for 23 years. Just in the last 11 years that I have been back into it I have managed to accrue a few thousand in rod/reels/lures. But these days it only amounts to enough for a decent down payment on a nice car. Forget collecting any of those three. Well...scratch women as none would have me. Still........

I want to learn, but don't skip yet. Seems you can skip with most rods...if you know how. May not be the best, tho. Why not try a rod designed for skipping such as the 6'9" MH+ Zolo Skipper? 3/8-1 oz. rating.

I would think paying the same price for a $280 combo vs $180 combo (list) would be the deciding factor unless you have to have a MH rod. It would be for me. Other than that I can't give you a 'why' as I've never used any of those 4 items. I am almost always buying sight unseen. I depend on the recommendations and experiences of others. The Carbonlites get mentioned often as being excellent rods for the money. About the only Lew's you see mentioned here are the TP-1 and Black TP-1...which as it happens also get 'likes' the few times they have been mentioned. I think it is because a lot of people are unwilling to try something that isn't a big name. Unfortunately I don't have that problem.

Most rods are capable of successfully fishing several types of lures. For the most part it is us that are pigeon holing rods for specific techniques. I'm sure my dedicated frog rod would have no problem fishing some other types of lures. I just don't need it for anything else. MF and MHF are versatile rods. I feel that Moderate-Fast or Medium-Fast actions are also quite versatile. Take a look at the Zolo Toadface, Deputy, Dream and McSmalls. All versatile rods. We have so many excellent options today that trying to narrow our choices to one or two brands is tough. It need not say G.Loomis, St. Croix, Dobyns, Shimano, Daiwa or Megabass on the blank to be an excellent rod. Especially if you take price into consideration.

Right handed. Learned to cast either hand (in my early 60's), but stick with right when accuracy is a must. Usually use an overhand cast for ultimate accuracy. I'm not too bad with a left hand roll cast. Almost always cast with both hands on the rod...whether long or short cast. I don't use a backhand cast all that often, so not the best cast for me. Can't offer advice on how to correct your problem. I can say casting right handed to the right doesn't make for the best accuracy for me either unless I use an overhead cast.

Yeah. Started with Clinch knot, then Improved Clinch Knot then Uni Knot. Been tying the Uni Knot for umpteen years. Works in all lines.

6' MH Berkley Lightning $18.02 Daiwa Procaster 100HN $30 OR if combined Bantam MGL and a custom rod. Reel purchased new about $90 off regular price. Rod purchased used for probably around $150 less than the original owner paid...as a guess. Actually my PXL Type R cost more than the MGL, but any rod I have to put it on would bring the total less than the MGL/custom.

Nothing is free. I feel I get good distance with my SV spooled reels, but if I am going for distance I am not grabbing an SV spooled reel.

I thought the Tournament Pro LFS came out last year. I have one of the original Tournament Pros and it is a nice reel. Especially for the $125 I paid for it.