Delaware Valley Tackle

it's nearly impossible to diagnose without seeing it. As suggested, exchange it if possible or send it in and I'll look into it.

Ya that's just a screw to lock the side plate down. Loosen it all the way and rotate the opposite side plate to remove. Sometimes the screw has a small spring so you have to pull out on it to release the plate.

Interesting. I'd like to talk sometime about how you implement the two lathes into your work.

Weight plays a factor in two ways. First and foremost weight to stiffness ratio where the blank is concerned. Graphite modulus , scrim , resins , mandrels etc all factor into the final result. Secondly any unnecessary weight saved through component and design allow the blank to retain more of its inherent qualities. This doesn't mean that Rod A will be more sensitive than rod B simply because A is lighter. It depends how the weight was achieved.

Sweet. Are you using the metal lathe for the acrylic?

One or more of the spacers must be missing if the cap seats correctly

It's impossible for the Rod to have any affect on drag. Most drag/braid issues are result of failing to use backing.

They're pretty straight forward. Looking more like repair/exchange time.

There's no magic to it. Marine grease, drag grease if needed, gear oil on level wind, non spool bearings and sliding parts, a light oil for bearings(3in1, Remoil, Shimano bantam even sewing machine oil )

Screeching in a reel is often cent brake related. Make sure the centrifugal brake drum is clean and maybe put a light film of oil on it.

Ratings are subjective and vary from brand to brand. Look for something with a lite weight range that covers what you want to throw.

Where are you located?

Spinnerbaits, cranks, swim jigs basically anything except pitching and flipping.

Some don't like spiral wraps for top water but I haven't seen any negative affect. I'll use a simple spiral in heavier rods where stability is the main focus and a slower spiral on long casting rods.

There are lots of nice blanks out there including those mentioned. I've done a few lately on Rodgeeks glass blanks which have graphite in the butt resulting in light weight and small diameter. A mod fast graphite is hard to beat for popping off the grass though.

Gloomis won't even sell to custom builders.

Ya, annually is a good starting point. Semi annual, bi annual or some other schedule may be indicated by use and conditions.

You've got the perfect storm of issues there. Light lures with less than optimal aerodynamics, stiff line and a Rod that's likely not loading well. Lure weight ranges are subjective suggestions and the sweet spot is usually near the middle of the posted range.

How heavy of a bait are you talking about?

Heavier line will help but what ever you use do a clearing cast periodically and wind the line back on tightly.

Even with the chart it's a crap shoot due to manufacturing variables. Best bet is to dry fit the seat and grips and take measurements.

There's nothing special about "reel" oil. Marine grease on gears, 80-140 gear oil on level wind , non spool bearings and sliding parts, 3in1, Remoil or sewing machine oil for spool bearings.

If you palm a casting reel that's right at the fulcrum so I don't see much of any difference by using a heavier reel. I'm also not a proponent of adding weight especially to a Rod you paid extra for to get light weight. If you must, adding as little weight as you can get away with to the very end is the most efficient approach.

Ya you want to use the ultimate number of guides which may be more or less than something else. Spline is 1980's theory that has been largely replaced by straightest axis but it's all debatable . Overall it's nice to see the craft and advantages of custom rods being supported and presented to an audience like BassResource.com.

Replacing the felt drag washers with Carbontex often corrects wet weather binding. Drying and greasing the felt ones can be a short term fix.