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Delaware Valley Tackle

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Everything posted by Delaware Valley Tackle

  1. I tend to agree here.
  2. Casting distance has much less to do with the reel than you think, especially when comparing reels of somewhat similar quality.
  3. A Fuji BLAG 5.5 flowers by size 3 or 4 micros to the tip.
  4. http://www.mudhole.com//Fuji-ACS-Trigger-Reel-Seat
  5. The mag taper has a beefier butt section. The action and tip power are very close.
  6. Exposed blank seats are pre sized to fit the blank where you want it. Otherwise use a foam arbor.
  7. The ml MHX is a nice blank if used within its limits. I do the same except in a spinning design.
  8. The spinnerbait comment is what got my eye. They're sold by weight of the head so by the time you add wire, blades, skirt and trailer the weight is way more. The heavy hook needs some power to set too.
  9. You may find that ml blank under powered for some of the applications you listed.
  10. The reel seat has no affect on the BFS application of the Rod one way or the other. The minima seat is a love it or hate it proposition. If you've never used one i wouldn't gamble on a custom build. I'd go with an exposed blank seat with threads trimmed flush to the hood with a reel mounted.
  11. You could but you'll get more backbone by using a 7'6" or extending a 7'.
  12. There are varying versions of popping blanks. Some are fast action with a soft tip, others more of a mod fast or mod. I think a popping Rod is a better choice for the chatter bait as it will get to the backbone quicker than a traditional cranking blank. Given what and where you fish I'd lean toward the heavier power in a 7'6". There are lots of good blanks that fit the bill. I'll be doing some shopping later and will flag a couple.
  13. The term "custom" gets thrown around in some pretty loose ways. My philosophy is that form follows function so all builds focus on performance and comfort first and bling to whatever level circumstance and budget allow is second.
  14. Not at all. I find myself leaning more and more toward ML power for spinning applications.
  15. The pin Rod works well for float-n-fly presentation too.
  16. My understanding is that fly rods are not allowed under the new rules either.
  17. Not to complicate matters but the true measure of a reels retrieve speed is IPT inches per turn of the handle. A 5:1 or 24 ipt < reel has a mechanical advantage retrieving deep cranks (15'>). Other applications of ratio are personal preference.
  18. I concur. I'd approach it the same way. Cost wise , it wouldn't break the bank but shipping adds up and might be a deal breaker
  19. Ipt is measured at full spool so, no changing spools won't affect ipt
  20. Deep cleaning and lubrication will likely help those used reels.
  21. In all but the heaviest applications braid test is all about handling. 50# works fine for me as an all around size. 30 casts a hair better if max distance is required and thinner will dive better if cranking with it.
  22. Warm gently with a hair dryer. No hotter than you can handle bare handed. Use a razor on top of the foot to get the threads loose. As you unwind the thread it should peel off most of the epoxy. Warm and scrape remaining epoxy with a plastic tool or thumb nail. If you're careful you can use a razor blade but only perpendicular to the Rod
  23. Lews contracts with the same factory but they are separate business entities. ABU has been good with my dealings with them. even though the reel in question is an entry level reel, the likelihood of three lemons to the same consumer seems unlikely. Is it possible that that they are working but just not what you're used to?
  24. I agree , rewrapping is the "right " way to fix them but if appearance is of little concern you might be able to peel off the old stuff especially if it's separated already. Gentle heat and a thumbnail is all I'd use.
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