Crestliner2008

I agree with Raul, but here in the Northeast, freezing becomes a factor. Even in a shallow pond having 10' or water or less, the whole pond won't freeze over. However, the amount of oxygen left after it freezes can be a significant detriment to the bass; unless it has a good water exchange or flow, via underground springs.

Although I am mainly a smallie fishermen, I like fishing for largemouth this time of the year. Water temps are a tad under 50* right now and I've been popping them pretty regularly on tubes - Texas rigged with 1/8 oz. internal weight on 6# test line on my light spinning rig. Fishing from shore in about 3' - 6' of heavily stained water. I've gotten several around the 3# mark, with one approaching 4#.

In this state (MA), it is illegal to be under the influence of alcohol while operating a boat - period. Besides that, I have a hard enough time trying to catch fish sober! ;D Seriously....I have never and will never permit any kind/quantity of alcohol on my boat.

Have you tried to contact your DNR to ask their opinion and information on the lake? Also, if you can try to determine the forage base, that would be helpful to you.

I was shocked when I read that! I have used WD-40 as a degreaser to clean old grease & oil from my reels internals, however. Then I flush them with hot water and blow them out with compressed air. After they are dry, I then apply appropriate grease & oil. Works for me. There is ONE exception however! Years ago I bought an Ambassadeur Black Max baitcasting reel. If you used regular oil in it, it wouldn't cast worth a darn. Using WD-40 got you through a day of casting, but you had to keep on re-applying it just before starting the day's fishing. Lousiest reel I've ever owned!

I totally agree with Reel Mechanic on this. Netcraft offers a similar cork sealer that I've had great success with as well. If you leave the plastic on, the cork will rot in time.

Just do NOT use the hooks with the single barbed pin. These will slip off quickly. Instead, use the ones with the screw-lock type retainer. Much more effective. Plain Texas rigging - as shown - is less effective as well. The darn things just slide back too easily - IMO!

I like Sam's suggestion! Just add plenty of Cajun seasonings! I wouldn't waste 'em on fishing - too many good artificials out there. Eat 'em!

X2 - However, today was pretty breezy, cold and damp and I managed two nice fat largemouths (2# & 3.5#) on a weedless rigged tube with internal weight. Just had to keep my rod tip close to water in order to get the feel right. Also they required it to be snap jerked off/on bottom. I was home by noon - just too miserable to call fishing enjoyable today!

The are tailor made for drop shotting!

The backbone in the lower section is NOT for hook setting! It's for controlling the fish after it's on. The hook set for drop shotting is a fast reel and lift vs. an actual hook set. You need the tip flex for controlling the quiver you'll be imparting to the bait when presenting it down deep. Another important aspect of drop shotting: do not overwork the bait. Sometimes just dead sticking it down there will trigger more strikes than quivering your worm constantly. JMO!

I've lost more darn hard jerkbaits trying to fish them from the shore, when I have only a limited time to fish. Too expensive for me to consider anymore. I'd go with 1/8 oz. plain ball head jigs and 3" - 4" curly tailed grubs (white, chartreuse, smoke & green pumpkin). One of those colors will work. Yep, you'll lose a lot too, but they are cheap and VERY effective!

There's no way on this God's earth that I would recommend a newby to start off with braid...period. Good way to turn someone off from fishing! Go with the most logical choice of 8# test, quality monofilament, such as Trilene XL. Much less problems and very versatile.

I dislike talking brands. Get a 6'6" to 7' rod with a light - med. light action. It must have good flex on the upper 1/3 to 1/2 it's length. A solid butt section is great, especially if you are fishing deep. Every person's opinion on a good DS rod (or any other presentation specific tool) is valid. You have to decide what works for YOU. Just don't get hung up on BRANDS...please!!!

I totally agree. I've used the polamar for many years with no problems. And it works especially well for drop shotting. You just have to learn how to tie it properly; as has been outlined here.

I fish wacky rigged Senkos - unweighted - in depths up to 40' with no problem. They sink pretty fast. If you want FASTER sinking, I'd go with a hard bait, like a rattletrap or blade. Senkos are best left weightless. I've never had one gut hooked either; I use circle hooks.

Remember, if you see them....they've seen you. No way it's going to take your offering at that point. Mark the location. Use extreme stealth in re-approaching that spot, a couple of hours later. Then present a wacky rigged Senko. You'll get bit.

Well, I'll tell ya....it's only been about a week or so since the ice has left the water here in Western MA! So I kinda envie you folks with the long fishing seasons. That being said, have you tried the drop shot? If you are a "run n' gun" type of fisherman, this won't suit you well, but then again, neither will you catch many fish. I would definitely try finesse tactics and use extreme stealth when approaching your location. If you see a decent bass and it bolts....mark that spot and cruise in very cautiously, a couple of hours later....staying low in your boat and making the minimum amount of noise. Then make a long cast past the spot you figure you last saw that fish. A 4" wacky rigged Senko should do the trick under these adverse conditions. Give 'er a whirl.

Just get a cheap hole puncher (for putting holes in paper for those 3-ring binders). Take a plastic coffee can lid and punch away! All those little circles of plastic make great keepers.

Spooning for bass works well when they are suspended at specific depths above the bottom. You do not need to vertical fish....you can cast out...count down...and snap retrieve. Works in some situations. If you have them cornered, on the bottom, other presentations are better suited, i.e.: drop shot, blade baits, jigs.

When I first started using Fireline (Spectra) years ago, I was worried about the "frizzing" of the line near the bait, after many casts. I wrote the company and inquired as to whether or not this was detrimental (decreasing strength) and if I should re-tie more often. Their response to me was that this "frizzing" was just the coating they apply to the fibers and that it in no way decreased the strength or performance of the line. Further, they said that this design feature actually decreased the underwater visibility of the line! Who knew!? I still use Fireline to this day and have never been disappointed in it.

I use a slow & steady retrieve to give the bass something to key in on. Tip: with a pair of needle nose pliers, bend the bottom of both lips forward just a bit. Will dramatically increase the "blurping"!

Set yourself up with medium action, 6 1/2' - 7' spinning rod and a 1500 series reel, to balance it. Load it with 6# test fluorocarbon line on the primary spool (best for any sub-surface presentations) and 6# test mono on the other (for top waters). Get a bunch of 3" curly tailed grubs (various colors, but make sure you have smoke, white and motor oil), along with several dozen 1/8 oz. ball head jigs and you're golden. For on/off bottom retrieves, rig the tails to oppose the curve of the hook; for more horizontal retrieves, rig the tails to follow the curve of the hook. You can augment these jigs with tubes, hard jerkbaits and a popper or two. You'll have more than enough to get you into a lot of smallies! And do NOT forget to bring along a bag of Senkos!

Yes, thank you for that interview! Very informative.

Points represent a major structure feature of the lake bottom, which leads fish from deep to shallow water & vice verse.