Crestliner2008

They look like Poe lures to me.

Back in the 50's, my Dad bought me my first "knuckle buster" baitcasting rig (which I still have today). It was a Pflueger "Silkcast" and a Heddon "Pal" tubular steel 5' rod. I don't remember what kind of line I had on it, but I'm sure it was dacron (I'll bet most of the younger fishermen here have never seen, nor heard of using dacron line!). He told me to pick out one lure to use with it. I selected a red-head "shiner" finished Lucky 13 (wood of course). Caught my first pike with that outfit and quite a few LM bass to boot. I still have that Lucky 13 too! It'll be passed down several more generations I'm sure. Good memories!

I am not and have never been, a "fish for cash" fisherman. That being said, I spend a lot of time on the water each (open water) season (fishing 2 to 3 days a week on average) and have been doing so for about 50+ years now. A good day on the water for me is finding - and catching - a dozen, or so, small mouth bass, each over 2 1/2 lbs., not counting any caught under that weight class. I had a lot of good days last year and I'm looking forward to equally as many this season. There are guys, a lot younger than I am, than are what I call "power fishermen". They make hundreds of casts per day, sometimes per hour! I can no longer do that (physically), but I know bass pretty well and I don't "need" to make hundreds of casts, to have a successful day on the water any more (not to be construed as winning days in a series of tournaments). And my day on the water is more like 6 hours, as opposed to their day on the water being closer to 12. I guess the point I'm trying to make - unsuccessfully as I might be - is that age does have a tremendous impact on success. I believe the older professionals, sometimes just get lucky. Being in the right place at the right time and using their vast years of experience to dominate the tournament. The fact that the older pros are not consistently lucky seems to prove this out. JMO.

It comes in a clamshell pack so if it's not stapled shut, open one up and smell it. You'll live. It's not as bad as JJ's. Might have a slight garlic scent but should be more fishy. Don't forget about the Yamamoto stuff which should be right next to it. There could be a date code on the package or tube somewhere also. So, am to understand that if it isn't displayed in the clam-shell packaging, it's not the "new" formula? Is there a better way to tell? I'd like to try the new formula only, as I have a couple of tubes of the original already. Also, isn't Megastrike a Yamamoto product? Above it says, "Don't forgaet about the Yamamoto stuff which should be right next to it." Now I'm confused!

Gotta tell you folks, this company is really good. Placed a rather long order last Wednesday afternoon (over the phone) and it was delivered to my house at 2 pm on Friday! Wow....now that's service! Everything was in the box - no back orders (I hate back orders!). They have lures, terminal tackle, soft plastics, fly tying and rod building materials. And they've been around for a very long time! Just wanted you know. www.jannsnetcraft.com

I don't understand "cheaper"? They retail for about $7.00. That's not really expensive, in my opinion. Especially with such an effective tool as the X-Rap. It certainly is a long way from a LC Pointer, being almost 50% cheaper. I think you might be able to get a Husky Jerk for a dollar or two less? Bomber makes a pretty inexpensive substitute jerk bait too. And if you want to put on your own split rings and hooks, Netcraft (wwwjannsnetcraft.com) sells just the bodies of similar hard jerks at a very reasonable cost. Good luck!

Get yourself a medium action 6 1/2' - 7' quality spinning rod. Match that with appropriately sized quality spinning reel, filled with 6# test quality mono. Get a bunch of 1/8 oz. jig heads, molded on a size #4 hooks, along with a variety (colors) of 3" & 4" curly tailed grubs. Rig the grubs on the jig heads with the tail following the hook bend. Cast quartering up stream, while keeping a fairly snug line and allow your offering to drift back to about 90 degrees. Then start a slow retrieve back. Find any/all current breaks and present your offering as I've outlined here and you'll find smallmouths. Good luck!

It's not necessarily true that all bass go off-shore in the summer. That could be said, fairly absolutely, about big smallmouth, but with the largemouths, there are always a good number of bigger individuals prowling the shallows. Especially if the cover and structure is available to them. I've actually caught some of my biggest LM bass, fishing from shore; fishing early mornings and evenings, as these periods of the day afford me the best opportunity to be successful, while still allowing for a lot of mistakes (which you are bound to do when shore fishing)! These mistakes include heavy walking, too fast an approach, inappropriate clothing (like a white tee-shirt!) and miss-casts. Mid-day topwater fishing is the absolute best during the summer. You just have know where the good ambush points are and/or cover to avail the best position for the big bass to take. Then run a steady moving topwater like a buzzbait or Rage Toad, or the ever infamous, Hannon Snake! Just make sure your drag is down fairly snug (so you can control a feisty bass) and you are spooled with some heavier line.

I do not totally agree with your method of grub fishing. Two things you need to take into consideration. First, if you are fishing the grub with an on/off bottom retrieve, then your method is fine and gives the best action under those conditions. However, if you are fishing the grub with a horizontal or steady, straight retrieve, then you should rig the grub with the tail up, or following the hook. This will give your presentation a more natural swimming action. Try both ways in a swimming pool and you will see the advantage. Using the 8" GY grubs on or near the surface (a dynamite technique in shallow water btw!), they recommend the same rigging - keeping the tail up and following the hook. I would surmise that the two methods I've mentioned here would also work for the larger ribbon or curly tailed worms as well.

I've always removed the split rings and tie a plain snap on my line. Facilitates quick & easy lure changes and gives the lure plenty of freedom to act as it should. JMO.

What kind of mono are you using? Is the leader fresh - not like 3 or 4 years old? Do you wet your knot when snugging it up? Is your drag set too tight? A lot of reasons can cause a break off on these powerful fish. Sounds like the pound test you are using is just fine. I use 4# test fluorocarbon for my DS leader and about the only time I break off is when I get too anxious and put too much pressure on the fish. Then I sit down...take a breather...and replace the leader. I also make real certain that my drag is not too tight. When a smallie turns 90 degrees on you, down 20', if your drag doesn't slip instantly, he's a gonner!

I'm an Ika fan too! For both SM & LM bass. I use the same hook as RW, but my hook-set is a bit different. The bite is easily detected, after which I reel down to feel the weight of the fish and then just use a side pull set, not a snap. Has been working very well for me. BTW....do NOT overlook the "Big Ika"!

I've been using MegaStrike for 2 years now and use it all the time with plastic baits. Gives me the confidence edge! Haven't tried the "new" formula yet, but it looks like I'll be taking a trip to Dick's!

Wow! I couldn't disagree more! From ice out thru the freeze up, smallmouth are readily catchable on artificials. I couldn't begin to estimate how many SM's, over 2 1/2 lbs., I've catch & release each year. Many presentations will take them and frequently I'll out-fished crawdad and shiner fishermen by wide margins - and with a lot less mortality. Back in the '70's, there were less sophisticated lures and techniques available to the fisherman; add to that, the infancy of the sonar back then. Today, I'm sure the In'Fisherman would never refer back to that old theory. There is absolutely no reason to use live bait for any kind of bass anymore.

OK, here's the deal with this rig. If you are going to use a 1/4 - 1/2 oz. jig as the bottom weight, that just fine. However, your DS leader then has to be pretty substantial, to allow for proper hook-set. This defeats the advantage of the DS, in that this is - really - a finesse type presentation. I've been drop shotting for about 6 seasons now; but I fish for small mouth bass in deep, off-shore structures. Consequently I use pretty lite leaders, usually 4# test fluorocarbon. I have fished for LM in shallower, thicker vegetation, with a 10# DS leader with a fair amount of success, but you'd really have to step that up to about a 15 - 17 lb. test leader, in order to use both the DS and the bottom jig as a lure. Hook setting would your main concern - in my opinion. However, to each his own....give it a whirl!

I use a MH action 6'6" spinning rod with 12 lb. test fluoro and a 3/0 EWG hook for most of my largemouth fishing. I like the pull-set technique as well; crimping the barb down on all my off-set hooks to facilitate removal. Rarely do I miss bass this way. If a bass picks up a Senko, it won't let it go, so you can be patient!

First of all, it's going to be difficult to locate structure unless you have one of two things. A sonar of some kind. They are very reasonably priced these days. You can pick one up at BPS or Dicks for under $100.. this will be your best investment in helping you find structures. Or, a hand line if you can't afford a sonar unit. The later is a 1/4" - 3/8" nylon line with a heavy (1/4 - 1/2 lb.) weight attached to it. It's marked off in 5' intervals with knots & ribbons signifying the various depths. The one I use to use, years ago, was marked at 15', 20' 25', & 30'. Dropping this down several times over an area will tell you what you need to know about bottom configurations. Once you find a hump or drop off, there are a multitude of presentations available to you. The tackle section of any sporting goods store is loaded with just about anything that bass will hit. You need to cover the top, mid-sections and bottom of the area you intend to fish. Keep that in mind. Learn a few good techniques such as Texas rigging, drop shotting and crankbait fishing. It's a long road you are venturing on....the important thing is to have FUN in your travels.

I use a tube of MegaStrike almost every year. Great stuff. At least the fish think so. Maybe it's just my confidence edge? Whatever....the proof is in the catchin'!

Depends on what kind of worms you have been using? Have you tried Senkos? Or Fat Ikas?

I drag a tube on a "Wiggle Rig", with start & stop vibrations. This is basically a drop shot rig with the elastic at the sinker end. Works very well when the fish are inactive.

Outstanding fish indeed! Still waiting for my 5+.

I agree with the advocates of Spoonplugging (circa Elwood "Buck" Perry, 1960). Read his book growing up until I wore it out! Lots of great information there, even if you never plan on doing any trolling.

I agree with adding a couple of top water baits, as well as a spinnerbait or two, to your arsenal. Not sure what kind of "rubber worms" you are referring to, that you already use, but make sure you include some 5" Senkos - fished weightless on 3/0 EWG worm hooks.

I just knew this would be a great question on this forum! ;D

Depends on whether you are fishing for LM or SM bass for one thing. The clarity of the water is another consideration, along with water temperature. When these variables are known, then you can narrow down the playing field a bit. You said you still have a couple of weeks before your season starts! Living in MA here, I can only say that the water temps, by the end of this month, will be in the low to mid 60's. But I have no idea what you are going to be faced with. I do think you need to answer my previous questions first however. Then, maybe, some folks in your area can help?