Crestliner2008

Best bang for your buck: Bill Norman crankbaits, especially the deep Little N. Have taken a lot of bass on these. Have used X-Raps since they first came out and have never had a problem; either with the quality or the amount of fish taken. I love the action of the LC Pointers as well. Two uniquely different actions for fish in different moods. I purchase hard baits as tools for specific jobs, not looks or price.

Rarely can you fish both LM & SM with the same, single rig. Invest in having two (at least!). One for smallie fishing and one for largemouths. The first should be a medium to med-light action 6'6" - 7' spinning rod, loaded with 6# test line (I'd go with a quality mono myself) - similar, but not restricted to what RW has suggested. Then you can go with another heavier 6'6" spinning rod, like a medium-heavy version of the first, with a larger reel, loaded with 12# test fluorocarbon line (of your choosing). Both rigs will serve you quite adequately in pursuit of both species of bass, under a wide variety of situations and presentations. JMO

I use a light action rod with 6# test fluorocarbon line. Slip on a tiny 1/16 oz. bullet sinker. I tie on a #8 or #10 Spro "Power Swivel" to secure the sinker in position. To that I tie about a 2' length of the same fluoro with a size #2 (not 2/0!) Gamakatsu off-set worm hook. Affix a Roboworm or Cut Tail to that and you're in business for some serious "catchin'"!

MegaStrike.

Heddon's Lucky 13 (wood); 1959. 2 lb. largemouth. Been "hooked" ever since. Still have that lure.

This is a rather old hook. Been around for a very long time. I still use them today and they do make great Texas rigging hooks. Only problem is that you have to sharpen them. Not the best points.

1) Roboworms on the drop shot. 2) Senkos wacky rigged. Spring: Tubes, blade baits, Fat Ikas and hard jerkbaits. Summer: #1 & #2 above. Fall: Tubes, blade baits and #1 above. Winter: Not an option where I am!

To start off with, what kind of unit do you have? Some have different adjustment capabilities than others. It also depends on what you are trying to achieve. If finding bait balls, on deep water structures, is what you are after (like I am), Here is how I set up my Lowrance: Ping Speed: Maximum. This gives you the most bottom detail at all depths. Chart Speed: 75%. This insures that you miss nothing traveling through your sonar cone. Sensitivity: depends on the depth and how fast I'm running. Less sensitivity at high speed, deep water (this removes a lot of noise). More at lesser speed when I'm searching, but again, depends on the depth. This one adjustment is the one I play with most. Hope this is of some help.

This thread did give me a chuckle or two! ;D Anyway, I do carry a scale, for only one purpose. To confirm to myself, that I have caught and released a smallmouth bass over 5 pounds. Hasn't happened yet, but I'm working on it. Been working on it for a lot of years too! I do laugh when I see the TV stars holding their fish out to the camera at arms length. Who do they think they are kidding? Same with forum photos. If you are holding it out, you have only one objective. To make it look bigger than it actually is....period. This is not so much a "rant" thread as an irritation thread, thinks me!

Is "LMAO" a word? probably not, but it is now!

Being retired, I usually can pick & choose my days when to go fishing. I usually take the boat out 1 - 3 times a week, depending on weather. However, I fish EVERY day, regardless. Those days when I do not take the boat, I fish a few local ponds from shore, including the Connecticut River. So, yes, I am very familiar with the problems you might be facing. The suggestions above are fine, especially Rhino's, about being stealthy. This is the number one pre-requisite to successful shore angling. Myself, I take one rod and a selection of 1 - 3 presentations, all stuffed into a fanny pack. Wear sneakers! Yep, the old style basketball kind. Great for walking soft. You need to settle on one rod/reel combo you feel most comfortable with; one which you can cast easily - without thinking - in very limited quarters, sometimes even bending over and lob casting under trees. Sorry, but you just can't do that with a baitcasting rig! I use a 6 1/2' Med-Heavy spinning rod with a 4000 series Sahara, loaded with 12# test fluorocarbon. A good, all around combo for casting soft jerks, Senkos, top waters and jigs. As has been said, learn the water you fish. Know where the inside bends are. Where the sunken trees sit. Where the closest drop off is to where you plant your feet. Take your time approaching! Walk a step at a time. You cannot be a hurry. If you do, you'll fail. It's alot like still hunting deer, if you are familiar with that. And YES....wear camo if possible! Or very subdued, natural greens & browns. NO white T-shirts or white hats! This is NO ballony....if you want to be successful! Finally, take a couple of the selected presentations you will plan on using. Maybe 2 colors of Senkos. One top water. A blue/black jig with plastic trailer. That's it. I've caught a lot of quality largemouths with this tactic. It will work for you! Now go get 'em!

Try using a blade bait, like a Silver Buddy; or a tail spinner, like a Little George. You can fish these heavier baits quickly, just under the surface. And if that doesn't produce, count down according and retrieve in a pumping/stopping rhythm. You can actually fish the entire water column under such a school of bait, until you connect with the fish you want.

Great small mouth! I'd guess just around the 4 lb. mark or so. Hard to tell when a fish is extended out, away from the body like that. It distorts things (in the fisherman's favor!) She is spawned out and may have gone close to 5 lbs. earlier in the year. Congrats on a fine catch!

Outstanding job up there in ME!

Have you tried a plain ole' 1/8 oz. ball head jig with a 3" - 4" curly tailed grub? I've caught tons of smallmouth on these. Also, try fishing a tube once in awhile as well.

Use a plain ball head jig in 1/8 oz. for your twin tailed grubs. You'll connect and stay that way. If you are worried about snagging (which is why I think you are using a shakey head?), just get use to it! I loose dozens of ball heads every season. It's part of the game. Especially if "catchin'" is your goal. The good news is that they are cheap. And if you're ambitious enough, get a mold and mold your own.

Welcome back! Two things. First of all, go to a medical supply store and ask for an arm support called the "Band-It". It's two pieces of curved, hard plastic connected together by a velcro strap. Placed just below the elbow, on your forearm, it by-passes the tendons which connect the forearm to the bicept groups. Will aid in reducing pain associated with tendonitis or tennis elbow. And will prevent further injury to these tendons. Second thing is that the main river we fish here in MA is the Connecticut River. Very high now as well and it's been that way for a very long time now. That's a good thing, because it allows the bass to re-locate to more or less permanent structures, they normally would not have access to. Use an internally weighted, Texas rigged tube and you'll do just fine, even in these heavily stained/muddy conditions. Good Luck!

Not at all crazy. My oldest daughter lives in MD. The times I've been there, I've seen some nice looking water. Not sure where I've been though. Seems like you've got them dialed in just fine.

If you are wading and using a curly tailed grub for river fishing, why do you want to use a shakey head jig? I'm assuming you will be fishing current of some kind and the very nature of the grub is to be moving, in order to get the tail action. That being said, a plain ball head jig is more practical, in my opinion. But I'm sure the shakey head would work too. I just don't think it's needed. It's basic design is for creeping along the bottom at a slow pace in non-current waters. And if you employ that techinique with a curly tailed grub, I don't think you're not going to get much of the inherently designed action. If you are fishing in slack waters where the shakey technique can be used, then I think a straight tailed, floating type worm might prove more effective. Just a thought.

In order of my own personal preferences, I'd go with a 3" curly tailed grub on a 1/8 oz. plain ball head jig to start with. Then maybe a 5" wacky rigged Senko, followed closely by a 4" reverse Texas rigged Fat Ika. Finally, top water chuggers have produced a lot for me here on the CT River. Good Luck.....lots of choices. Know this, if a smallie sees something edible, in a stream or river, it will eat it!

OMG! Indeed! Roboworms have become my No. 1 drop shot producer. I've been using them now for my second season. And I love them! Check out my latest Quabbin (7/9/09) report in the "Northeast Bass Fishing" section below. Most of these quality smallies were taken on the Roboworm, on the drop shot. The balance on Senkos. Between Roboworms and Senkos, I can take 1- 2 doz. quality (3#+) smallies every time out. Great plastics! And just to throw in a slammer, I HATE Gulp! Used them last week too. As soon as I stop using it and switched back to the Robos, I starting catching again....and again....and again!

Anyone use this technique anymore? Haven't seen anything written about it for a long time.

RW nailed it above! One of my most productive presentations. Check out the links sited here and you'll get all the information you need to stack 'em high! Unbelievably productive piece of plastic!

For the last two years, I've used the Trilene Transition fluorocarbon on two rods of mine and I like it. Let's me see the line better, yet disappears under the surface. I like the gold color; tried the red - yuk! Can't see it at all with these old eyes. Went back to the gold.

I coat all new cork rod handles in "U-40" Cork Seal. This product works extremely well for keeping stains off cork handles. I've been using this product for many years. Available from: http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/