Crestliner2008

If you do not want to spend time learning how a fishfinder can dramatically increase your catch ratio, then I'd suggest trying to find shallow overhead cover and/or underground springs. Either of these will produce for you, but you'll be getting smaller fish and only one or two at a spot. It's tough staying shallow this time of the year. My ultimate suggestion? Learn to use a sonar and catch fish everyday.

I never leave home without a drop shot rod. If I'm targeting smallmouth in a river, I'll use the same rigging I do for boat fishing. If I'm targeting largemouth, I'll beef up the leader to about 10# test fluoro, instead of the 4# test I use from a boat. Also, from shore I'll always tie an off-set worm hook on so that I can texpose the plastic. This will reduce your hang-ups tremendously.

I agree! The big plastics like that the key to getting into some giant LMs. Even rigged TX style they're great.

I usually fish the full size sweet beaver myself on a 4/0 EWG worm hook, texposed. If I were using the small sweet beaver, I'd probably go a size down, to a 3/0. Also, get yourself some Sluggo belly weights. Lead nails more or less. Put one in the belly. Works a lot better than a bullet weight on the nose. JMO!

Depends mainly on what you are fishing for? LM around weed edges, I'd probably go for the 100. Smallies where ever you find 'em, I'd go with the 78. The 78 is extemely versatile. Will work well for the LM too in many situations. If I could only have one, it'd probably be the 78. Most of my buddies prefer the 100's. Go figure!

Odds are pretty good that the decent bass have gone deep. No doubt about it, some will remain in the pads and slop during the summer period. But a substantial - and untouched - population hang around the bait fish cruising the deeper breaks and humps. Find those humps or breaks, with your sonar. Weed out all but the ones which have bait relating to it. Forget about "finding fish". Just fish the deeper bait balls. You'll connect. And if you want to be absolutely sure about any given structure you're targeting, put a drop shot down there - and hang on!

When you see your line heading up, loosen your grip somewhat, keep the rod tip low and by all means.....keep the line tight to the fish when it becomes air born. Give it any slack and she's gone.

Took almost 1 1/2 months. They shut her down do to a zebra muscle scare. Now we have to have our boats pressure washed with 140 degree water for decontamination. Then they will put a "seal" between boat & trailer. Each time you launch they cut off the old seal and put a new one back on when you leave. If you keep your boat strictly for the Quabbin, you'll never have to go through this decontamination again. A lot of BS in my opinion. Especially since the scientific evidence shows that the water quality of the Quabbin in not conducive to their survival. But whatever....let the fun begin!

Good find! Definitely worth your time. I'd drop shot it for sure. But I'd use a heavier ds leader - 10# fluoro - and the hook would be one the diminutive Gamakatsu off-set worm hooks. They come in sizes like #2 and #1 (not 1/0!) and this makes presentation of a 4" - 6" worm just ideal! Good luck!

This may be of some help to you. I fished with this guy and the device works great! He seems to be very pleased with how it works for him: http://www.maanglers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13920

Try the 5" Kalin grub in Smoke w/black flake. Phenomenal producer! Proven on the tourney trail. Less expensive than the Yama grugs too.

The smallies where I fish, eat both white & yellow perch regularly, along with smelt. You can often see the tail section of either species sticking out of their gullets. As a matter of fact, the majority of "bait" we see on the sonar, is perch. We know this because our drop shot baits are being pecked a lot and you occasionally foul hook one. Twice confirmed on the Aqua View as well. I believe the white perch is a separate, distinct species from white bass. But I could be wrong?

Worse one is Chompers 4" drop shot worms! Talk about a STRONG garlic stink! You open the pack and the whole boat reeks of it. Almost too much to handle. ;D

This is my 5th. season using this technique and it's worked flawlessly. I mainly fish smallmouths on off-shore structures and can count on 3 or 4 fish (sometimes more) with each Senko. And they are quite a bit cheaper than the popular "O" rings.

I may have jumped a little too fast on this....maybe not though. With all the rest of the impositions this state has been putting on us, it doesn't surprise me. From my investigations, it's the Fish & Wildlife that are passing this law, not the state legislature. Regardless, it will still impact the majority of Bay Staters who fish. I will try to find the source of this ridiculous measure.

Our legislators have just passed a new law, requiring the banning of all lead sinkers, jigs, and baits containing lead in any way, shape or form, starting 2011. This means that tube jigs, bass jigs, crappie jigs, walking sinkers and a plethora of other forms of lures (blade baits, tail spinners, spinnerbaits, etc.) will not be allowed for fishing in any MA waters very soon. Now I (we fisherman in MA) need you help! I need to know where I can buy replacements for the thousands of jig heads, Silver Buddies, Lindy rigs, etc., etc.. Is there any company that makes non-lead crappie jigs!? This is unbelievable folks and I'm really beside myself. Don't anyone ever think about moving to this state if you enjoy fishing! Sorry for the rant.

Spoonplugs.

If you are rigging wacky style, I've used this system for 6 years now with great success. I average 3 - 4 fish per bait: http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1236855515

Loved your post! I love nothing more than experiencing the excitement of trying out a new lure or presentation. When I go out to fish, I have no expectations. What will be, will be. I do my best to ply the knowledge I've learned over many years of fishing to every outing. If I'm successful, that's always a big plus. If I'm not, I don't leave without knowing that I've learned something valuable. Happy to see you got into the drop shot. A truly marvelous presentation under the right circumstance. Been drop shotting for only 1/2 doz. years now, so I'm still learning. BTW.....with your observations of how the worm acts in shallow water aside. When you do lower it, stop. Let it sit without moving it at all. For a good 30 seconds. Then a quick one/two twitch. Then stop again. You'll be surprised at how many more bass will nail it on these pauses! I've found over the years that the less action I impose on the bait, the more natural it becomes in the water (especially deep water) and consequently, the more attractive it becomes to the fish.

Try waking a Helin floating FlatFish and see what happens!

Try any sinking plastic with a floating jig head. Bill Binkleman came up with these back in the 70's. Lindy/Little Joe followed suit, as did the Lindners, with the "Lindy Rig". As old as the hills.

Inexpensive sonars are available from a wide variety of companies these days. Most can be easily adapted to a canoe, utilizing a smaller rechargeable motor cycle battery. Before my first Lowrance "Green Box", I used a hand line to determine even subtle drops in structures, for many, many years. It was a 1/4" nylon line with simple overhand knots tied at 10', 15', 20' & 25'. Each knot had a small section of different colored ribbons. An old rusted 3/4" bolt was the weight. It taught me a lot.

Crimp down the barbs.

Use longer pauses in the cold water period and shorter pauses in the warm water, like now. It's a killer!

Ever try to lip land a bass with a hook in it's lower jaw? Hook UP....always!