Crestliner2008

Do an online Google search for the B n' M tackle company. They specialize in crappie gear and have fine line up of quality UL spinning rods. Great customer service too! I have two of them. My favorite is their Sam Heaton's Super Sensitive in 7' length. this is 2-piece UL rod with a fast tip and plenty of back bone. Match it with a quality UL reel and some 2# test mono and you're good to go. You can call them or request a catalog online.

Your bass gear is just fine for pike. As far as handling them is concerned, it's not that difficult. The thing is you have to make sure they are played out. A pike that comes right to you is no way ready to be landed. Guide the spent fish along side the boat. Extend your hand over the top of the head with fingers on one side and thumb on the other. Grip tightly over the gill plates and lift vertically. As soon as you have the fish up and out of the water, reach with your other hand and grab ahold of one of the gill plates. Grip that plate tight and you can now release your hold across the head. You're all set now to remove the hooks - just keep a tight grip on the lower gill plate. To release the pike, grab ahold of the tail and keep your hand on that gill plate. Lay it carefully in the water and release the gill plate while maintaining a tight grip on the tail. Move the pike back & forth until it revives and does an "S" curve with it's body. Release it and she should be just fine. I've caught and landed a lot of large pike in this fashion; my biggest was 22 lbs., taken on a baitcasting rig with 14# mono for the main line and an 18" steel leader. It hit a Wendel's Musky Harasser, which is a large in-line spinner. Caught this girl in July while trolling for pike in 40' of water.

Check out Fleck. Been around for 30 years. Always reliable and inexpensive. Northern Bass Supply carries a good selection.

I do a lot of off-shore, deep water fishing for small mouth bass. Last year I caught a very unusual specimen on the drop shot. It had two black spots on it's forehead and one near the anal fin. Released that bass, as I do all the fish I catch. Couple of days later I caught the same fish again, on a drop shotted Roboworm. Now to be fair, I don't remember exactly which bait I was using the first time I caught her, but I usually DS with Roboworms about 90% of the time. After that second catch, 3 weeks later, I caught the same bass again, on a drop shotted Roboworm! I don't know.....I don't think they're that smart! ;D

If the edge of the ice corresponds to some underwater structure, such as a point or drop off, it could very well produce big time for you. If the thawed section is over a barren piece of shoreline, it may be a waste of time. Depends on how well you know the lake and what presentations you prefer to fish with. You can probably "test" the edge by casting a nose hooked or wacky hooked 4" Senko up onto the ice and dragging it off the edge. Letting something like that just fall down from the edge is almost too much for bass (or pike) to resist. That is, if there are fish located in that particular spot. A drop shot or split shot rig can work fine as well. Just about any slow, soft plastic presentation should get you bit.

I truly believe that preference for baitcasting or spinning, is basically just a personal preference choice. There is little that cannot be done successfully with a spinning rig. The converse is not necessarily true however. Especially when you start getting down in line and lure sizes. The fable of line twist with modern spinning rigs can usually be found to be caused by operator error. Either the line was improperly installed, the bail is not manually tripped, or an incorrect rigging (such as not using a swivel when needed) is employed. Whether I'm running braid, fluorocarbon or mono on my main line, I always use an appropriate sized fluorocarbon leader of about 3' long with a quality swivel in between. More to the point of this question at hand; a good spinning rig, loaded with 10# fluorocarbon line is about as optimal as you can get for throwing Senkos. And that includes whichever rigging way you want to toss. The "snapping" off of any wacky rigged Senko is usually caused by inserting the hook through the worm (without any support), instead of using an attachment device, such as an o-ring or Goody band. I've caught as many as 8 or 9 fish on one Senko using Goodys. No problems....no worries.

I don't flip or pitch much, but I use a baitcasting rig regularly. Mine if filled with 30# test PP and a 17# test fluorocarbon leader of about 3'. Has worked well for me for years now. You could probably pull over a tree with 30# braid. Not really convinced heavier line is a true necessity....but I could be wrong. To each his/her own.

OK guys, I never thought I'd be asking this question, but the arthritis is getting annoying sometimes now. I've always been a proponent of NOT using a net. I much prefer hand landing (by jaw only) and touching the fish as little as possible. But this fall got me to thinking; not so easy for me to kneel or bend way over the side anymore. Maybe it's time for me to look into a net? I've seen some flat bottom models that have a "knotless" mesh. Suppose to be very fish-friendly, if there is such a thing. Does anyone use one of these? And if so, which brand. Do you feel comfortable using it, in light of wanting to do as little harm as possible? Thanks for your input folks.

I don't fish the beds. That being said, I also don't believe that bed fishing will have that severe an impact on the fish population IF, catch & release is quickly adhered to. The TV program, Hook N' Look, did a show last year on bed fishing for smallies. It took about a 15 minutes, after the fish was released, for it relocated itself back on the bed. That's not a good thing, nor too bad a thing, if the bluegill population is not that dense in that area. I don't think what you use is all that important, if you decide to bed fish. Any/all intruders to the nest - or close by it - will be met with the same scrutiny and attack, if perceived to be a threat. The bass has no other choice. Even if it knows the treat is not "real". It's basic nature kicks in as well as it's instinct to protect the nest. Another reason I don't bed fish. It's really not all that challenging.

The HJ and the X-Rap are fine suspending jerkbaits. I've caught a lot of fish on both, as well as with the Pointers. It all depends on the mood of the fish. Sometimes one out produces another. That's why they call it "fishing". Early spring is the best time of the year for me with these baits. I really like the smaller HJ and X-raps during this pre-spawn period, when the bass (both species) are up along the edges of the shallow spawning flats. Again, no "best" way to fish them, although with water temps in the low to mid 50's, I'd give them a lengthy pause between twitches.

One other technique, that has not been mentioned here, is to suspend a Senko under a slip bobber - to the depth that the fish are holding. Works for me in a very clear, deep reservoir that I fish for small mouths. It could work for you? Here's the link to the prior discussion we had here: http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1251054672

Depends on what I'm fishing for. If LM bass is my target, then a 6" Senko. If SM, 4" Roboworm.

If you've taken the hangers off, then before you replace them, dip the threads in a little Loctite "ScrewLock". That'll make sure you don't have a problem. As said previously, replace the originals and hang them with split rings. Best way to determine the appropriate size is to try one close to what the original is and see how they act. Then replace with a size larger and see how that affects the action. If it does, then back off one size and you'll be in the correct ball park. Also, the bottom of each orb of the lip....bend it slightly forward. That will increase the erratic action.

I've probably got about 4 or 5 colors in my bag. Whenever I get on a drop shot bite, I'll switch off just to see if it makes a difference. It usually doesn't. However, if you switch to another "kind" of DS bait, that can actually shut them down sometimes. They do love those Robos though!

Multi-tools are indispensable any time you are out fishing. However, for hook extraction, the long nose pliers are much more efficient. Get a pair that is stainless, for reasons I'm about to outline.... Something to consider, if you are looking at multi-tools. Rust resistance! Last year I bought a mid-range Gerber multi-tool to wear on my belt. Rusted badly. And it didn't even get that wet! Just make sure it's stainless or is warranted against rust.

Fish structures you know, that have produced for you in the past. Fish slow. Dragging a dark tube can work wonders sometimes.

Well, to each his/her own I suppose. In my mind, hand-lining a fish on a rope through a hole in the ice isn't exactly what I call fishing. But what do I know! Been ice fishing a few times. The only enjoyment (for me) comes from cooking (and eating) great food, drinking a lot of spirits and swapping a bunch of lies with some equally inebriated, jolly good guys . ;D

True dat on the 4x4 turning radius they all suck, and they hurt gas mileage,which in my mind is the biggest wallet buster. They do? My F-150 has a smaller turning radius than my Nissan Altima. And it's about 3 times as big. You want to tow with a 4WD (or 2WD for that matter) truck and you're concerned about gas mileage? That's an oxymoron. The two don't compute. Towing = low gas mileage. Solution = don't tow and buy a Nissan!

Location.....Location.....Location.

X2. Water or soil....colleges are always looking for samples to teach with.

In MA here, everything is pretty well locked up with ice. EXCEPT.....the CT River! Plenty of open water there. A good friend of mine has been hitting smallies and walleye there for a couple of weeks now. The only reason I'm not out there with him, even today, is because I won't be 65 until next month. Then the cost of my "sporting" license goes down to a mere $25.00! And yes, when you're on a fixed income....it does matter! I'll be out there in a few weeks for sure. Everyone can find open water to cure cabin fever if you just look around.

Here are some of the things to look at: First of all, as has been said here, make sure it's got plenty of power! You just cannot overdo that. It will actually allow you to get the most life out of your vehicle. This extra HP just goes easier on your truck as a whole when you tow a lot. Next - and VERY important - check out the turning radius of the truck. A friend of mine just bought a cab & a half Dodge pickup 4 x 4. He has a very difficult time maneuvering at the ramps because of the extremely wide turning radius of this truck. I just know he's going to trade it this spring! Finally, make sure it's got a separate transmission cooler installed - or have one installed ASAP after you buy it. Again....if you want to extend the life of your vehicle.

When there is partial ice left on the water, this is a great time to be fishing. The "edge" of the ice is very important. Fish use this edge, just as though they'd use a weedline edge. Cast your offering up onto the ice and slowly move it off, into the open water. Just remember one thing though....check your line OFTEN! Ice cuts line like a razor blade. A great lure to do this with is a 4" Senko, rigged any way you like. That piece of plastic falling off the edge of the ice and wiggling downward, is more than any respectable bass can ignor!

Thanks guys! The only reason I was asking was because no around here knew what it was.

Link doesn't work....for me, anyway? As far as using the blade baits goes, I'd recommend a different presentation. Cast it out and let it settle. Then barely twitch it off the bottom until you just start to feel the vibrations. Stop immediately and let it settle again. You'll feel the hit!