Crestliner2008

I've been using the Netcraft brand for many years. But I use them when I pre-tie my drop shot leaders and store them on the velcro tubes (also sold by Netcraft). Then, if my leader becomes frayed, or I've caught more than 3 bass on one, I just unwind a new leader from the tube and snap it on the swivel of my main line. Back in business in seconds vs. having to re-tie. Have never lost a bass because of it.

The only time I'd ever consider doing anything with blades is when I've neglected them for long periods of time (in storage) and they become tarnished. Then the best, easiest and fastest way to sparkle them up is with NEVR-DULL. Pick up a can in your auto parts store. You'll find tons of other uses for it around the house as well. A great product.

Here's a couple of reverse rigging pictures:

I believe fishing gets better, after ice out, when the water warms a bit during the day. However....after being locking in the deep freeze all these months, you can just bet I'll be out there at the break of dawn, as soon as I get a glimmer of open water!

I agree! The Magic Eraser is great on cleaning cork. Wish I could buy them in bulk!

Lindy Rig.

Great off-shore structure tool. You can't fish them wrong, unless you fish them too fast. Keep them close to the bottom and you'll get bit. In my mind, when you say "bluffs", I envision a steep drop off to deep water. If that's the case, don't over look a tail spinner, like the Little George, or a blade bait.

That's just obscene!

I love the Sammy over deep water humps for smallies. Have had better luck on LM with the Chug Bug though. Maybe I'll have to revisit it this year for smallies, thanks!

Just being out in my boat, amongst Mother Nature's splendors. Makes me feel like I really "belong".

Several of the lakes and reservoirs we fish here are now restricting the use of lead sinkers of any kind. Consequently, being a true dye-in-wool Yankee, I had to come up with a cost effective approach to solve this problem. There being no way on this good God's earth that you'd catch me paying over a buck apiece for tungsten! (Which btw, is more toxic than lead....but that's another story.) Went to my "El Cheapo" store of choice, WalMarts! And of course, they happen to have some "Non-Lead" (steel) sinker alternatives for a reasonable price of only $1.25/6: Adding inexpensive split rings and some drop shot swivels, both of which I got online from Netcraft (www.jannsnetcraft.com) and the components are ready for assembling. And this is how I put them together....first the split ring: And attach the swivel to the ring: Then just run your line through the pinched eye of the swivel and you're in business (I'm using a heavy braid in this picture for clarity): By the way, using these components gets you two swiveling bases to your drop shot rigging. Helps a tad with line twist. I do hope this is of some help.

I use to do my own tune-ups on my cars & trucks - about 30 years ago now. But since the advent of the new "plug & play" modular replacement parts and technically complicated emission devices, there is no "tune-up" that you can actually do anymore. You are forced to take it to a qualified mechanic. Likewise, I use to strip down, clean and re-lube all my reels each winter. Now-a-days however, I'm being forced to do like my autos....and take them to a "qualified" mechanic for maintenance. The parts and screw on the newer Shimanos and Pfluegers demand specialized tools for access to the areas you really need to get to. Everything seems to be opposed to Henry David Thoreau's philosophy of: "Simplify...simplify!" I wonder....is technology developing for the benefit of we fishermen? Or, for the benefit of the manufacturers? I sure will be happy when ice is out so I can focus on more important matters.

Thanks! Very good information.

You might do well to start reading the articles posted here at the heading of the main forum page. Loads of information and details on the questions you are asking. A bit difficult to answer you directly in this one post as you are covering a lot of ground. Read up and when you have a specific question, all of the fine folks here will chime in with plenty of answers.

It's a gimmick that's caught on. The SG rods allow for fancy bling to be painted onto the rod both on the handle area and where the foregrip would go. As for weight reduction? How much does cork weigh? If that little weight is an issue I'd suggest some time in the gym. Sensitivity? First, I don't have my hands up on the foregrip area to begin with though the foregrip area missing is not that big a deal. What little dampening happens with the cork missing isn't worth not having the cork there. It's a personal choice matter really. X2 - no question....a marketing gimmick, pure & simple. Something to raise the cost and pull more green from your pocket! (Isn't America great!) They do look cool however, I'll give ya that - but only that. If you think they are more sensitive....then I have a heck of a bridge for sale in N.J. that you are just going to love!

I know....you're suppose to use about a 4' leader, right? What if you don't want to? Is there a detriment to using shorter leaders? Reason why I'm asking is that last season, I started to really get into C-rigging. Found it a real "pain" to cast (using my 7' pitching stick). I shortened the leader and caught some good fish. But I don't want to be missing anything either. On the other hand, I'm not in a position to buy a longer rod either right now. Appreciate your thoughts folks.

Haven't tried this new one yet, but I have had some great results with Vanish Transition Fluorocarbon. A bright yellow in the light, which quickly disappears underwater. Been using it on two of my spinning rigs for 2 seasons now. One thing though....they make it in yellow AND red. I tried the red late last fall and dumped it. Can't see the darn stuff. Stick with the high-vis yellow.

I agree, braid is not the problem. Have you considered using a spinning rig vs. baitcasting? A good Med-Hvy, 6 1/2' - 7' rod will solve your problem. Don't let anyone tell you that a spinning rod cannot be used in heavy cover either. I use 30# PP with a 3' section of 17# test fluorocarbon as a leader; on a series 4000 Shimano with no problems.

About the best you can do with those maps is to try to visualize and extend what you can see (on land), into the water. May/may not be an accurate representation of what is really there, but at least it will give you some idea. I'm assuming you are fishing this from shore? If you are using a boat, use your electronics to map it more precisely. Other than that, without knowing the depth of the lake, water clarity, bottom content, forage base and/or temperature of the water, there isn't much anyone can do to point you to where the fish are I'm afraid. Only you have the ability to answer those questions.

Bass - as well as anything in nature - do not adhere to rules well all the time. There must be something attracting them that particular area. Whether it be an underground spring or a specific forage availability, or cover. Something obviously attracts them to the area you've been finding them in. Don't try to over think it. Just go catch 'em!

I've got a 370 (original) box full of R.M.'s Helicopters - even with instructions! Never used. Maybe someday! ;D As far as the flying lure goes, I never had them, but I do use the Fat Ika, reverse rigged, which has a similar action (back-up). And, I'll see if I can find the article I have stashed in my bookmarks, about fishing Canadian lakes for smallies by reverse rigging a tube in similar fashion to the flying lure. Maybe not as far fetched as you think?

Buck Perry did that 40 years ago, in front of reporters too.

I've never paid attention to exactly what the numerical value is of a drop or rise in pressure. I just know that when a front approaches, I try to get out & fish. Post front, I'll fish too, but my tactics are dramatically changed. I would not get too tied up my socks over fronts. Just knowing what they are and how they affect fish is plenty. Fishing is not that precise, (nor that hard) if you try to adapt to the conditions you are faced with. The tournament pros prove this time & time again. They cannot pick & choose when they are going to be fishing. They fish when they fish....period. And someone always wins!

Lures are simply tools which you use, under certain circumstances, to achieve depth and speed control. There is no reason to think that this lure could not achieve that criteria. A lot of the hype and TV coverage has probably clouded that fact, with regards to this lure and turned some anglers off.

You want to know something? I believe that it doesn't matter one iota what is crawling across the pads or thick vegetation. A bass feeds when the opportunity presents itself. It cannot evaluate that you are using a Bronzeye Frog or a Rage Tail! To think that is simply silly - IMO!