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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/17/2014 in all areas

  1. I see many topics come along about selecting the correct jig head for a certain situation or just all around use. There are many factors in this like structure, bottom composition and overall preferences from the individual fisherman. To make things easier here is a base guideline that should help out on picking a jig to match the conditions. Many types and styles will cross into different structures and work in most cases and some really shine in a specific use. Here is a good way to save some time and pick the right head that will do well in these conditions. Brush Jig The Brush jig is a great all around jig style. Personally one of my favorites that I fish. This jig functions well in the brush, does well in rock, and light weeds. It also sits the trailer and falls at about a 45 deg angle that has the trailer pointed up. Football Jig The good ol football jig. This jig head design works great in rock, ledge fishing, or dragging. Some even use them in brush. The wide football head style runs well through the rock and is very stable from rolling over. Arky Jig Arky jigs are a proven design that is very versatile. The Arky jig works good in rock, light weeds, brush, and even skips. It is truly a great all around jig for many applications. Roundball Jigs A roundball jig, typically is fished with a finesse skirt on it produces a small profile jig for finicky fish. The round ball jig is a well rounded style that fishes good in pretty much all scenarios except weeds. This jig is one that i resort too when the fishing gets tough and the bite is real light. Punching jigs/Grass Jigs This is a jig that makes a great cross between grass fishing in thick weeds in heavy weights to swimming. Its more cone styled head pulls through weeds will less resistance then any other head style above. If your looking to fish heavy weeds with a jig a cone/bullet styled head tends to be the best for minimum weeds. Swim Jig The good ol swim jig is a very versatile design and is generally made to mimic baitfish. This design can be fished in pretty much all structures but is best when swimming, light weeds, weedlines, or small rocks, and laydowns. If you cut the skirt it also makes a great finesse jig like the roundball jig. These style jigs have really become popular in the last several years. I hope this helps in decoding the jig head. There are many styles and many opinions on jigs and how they should be fished. Use this as a base line and grow your technique from there.
    4 points
  2. I think you're taking the internet a little too seriously
    3 points
  3. This is getting a little out of hand. HE IS NOT SAYING THE LENGTH OF THE HANDLE CHANGES IPT HE IS SAYING THAT THE RATIO OF HOW FAR YOUR HAND TRAVELS(dependent on handle length) TO HOW MUCH LINE IS RETRIEVED(ipt) IS A BETTER GAUGE OF REEL SPEED THAN GEAR RATIO. No one is debating whether it changes ipt, of course it doesnt, and no one is saying handle length changes gear ratio. Handle length does determine how far your hand travels to reel in said amount of line but not how much is retrieved in one turn. A longer handle means your hand moves farther in one turn than a shorter handle. Im not even gonna argue about the math i worked it out and joshs math is right. And pluto is a planet whether some scientific convention decides it is or not. Everyone can sit on uranus and debate this for eternity im going fishing! :-)
    3 points
  4. You lost me at "Facbook Article"...
    3 points
  5. I checked the bio he's a guy. Still don't be sexist, I wish more women fished. Imagine a girlfriend to fish with. Absolutely beautiful.
    2 points
  6. No, you pick 1 and fish it forever if you enjoy fishing instead of catching bass. Tom
    2 points
  7. I've seen several causes for this. Like Raul said, slack reeled onto the spool will create loops of loose line going onto the spool. You can also create twist by using plastic worms that aren't perfectly straight on the hook along with other lures like in-line spinners. Try these things to see if they help. 1. Close your bail by hand and make sure there isn't any slack in the line as you start to reel. 2. After the fact, DO NOT pull the twist off the spool with the bail open. Close the bail, loosen the drag all the way, and slowly pull the line off just like a big fish is pulling it off. This should remove the loops with letting them knot up.
    2 points
  8. 316 Rising Son and Mission Fish, Mattlures Ultimate Bluegill, Savage Gear Line Thru All baits I've caught fish on, all under $20, all have the power to draw the big bite.
    2 points
  9. Really? Crawl back under the rock you came from.
    2 points
  10. Bear with me, as this opens the discussion up, and may support what measurement means more to you. mjseverson24 should be able to chime in, since his background is in this realm. It seems to me, 20% decrease in torque would be more easily realized than a 20% increase in knob travel. Here's why: When I fish a moving bait, I pretty much use a constant retrieve. Actually, sometimes I slow down as the bait gets closer, but that's a whole different discussion on technique, not gear. That retrieve rate is usually judge by the bend in the rod, or in other words, I pick speed based on resistance of the bait. It matters little what length the handle is, within reason, of course. My hand moves at basically the same rate, irrespective of the length of the circumference the path of the knobs describe. Watch yourself reel. Observe the difference, if any when differing handle lengths are introduced. I did this with two of my three Chronarchs, one has a Hawgtech, the other does not, and the third is handicapped, as Maximus says lol. There isn't any difference. Crank shaft RPM, or the speed I move the handle is unchanged, even though I changed handle length. Remember that resistance I spoke about? To get the rod tip load equally, requires the same cranking RPM. The perceived torque used to get to this arbitrary, yet constant load is different. The longer handle takes less effort. How much less? aavery quantified this with simple math. What changes in the parameters affect this perceived difference? Handle length, gear ratio, spool diameter. Change just one of these parameters, and you get a noticeable change in the way a reel feels. What's not on that list? Knob travel distance, as it relates to "rollout" or "overall gear ratio" - a term I hate. The amount of line taken up by the spool is the same, regardless of knob travel. While this certainly changes when you increase handle length, it isn't an influence on "speed" of the reel. I'm all for discussions on specs, and using formulas and math to get to the answers and support an opinion. But, and this is a big ole but, it must apply to practical usage. There might be a place for Josh's formula to justify or quantify a some mechanical change made to a reel, but for comparison's sake, and real world fishing, it pales in consideration of other factors. You may disagree, and that's okay, too. I would like to hear an application of rollout or overall gear ratio applied to actual fishing conditions. Last thing, if this doesn't discussion interest you, then don't post negatively. Just move on. I could care less about many topics posted here, but I have to read them all, being a moderator. I don't post in threads I deem unworthy of discussion - it's not my business, so long as forum rules aren't being broken.
    2 points
  11. I like the CRS cranks from academy too, for around 3$ a pop they are awesome. I like the KVD 1.5s too, they go off on a tangent sometimes and then get back on track which I like at times and don't like at other times. IMO the KVD and CRS cranks are waaay better than the LuckE Strike Rick Clunn square bills, I have caught fish with the Rick Clunns but I have gotten none that ran true out of the box, one that had the bill break off in timber, another that sank tail down, and one that either the hook or split ring broke on (I cant remember for sure which it was). I know a lot of people that like the lucky strike ones though so give them a try for the heck of it.
    2 points
  12. But guys you HAVE to use a bead and swivel or you wont catch fish!
    2 points
  13. I was a machine mechanic, machine builder, millwright. I always loved the workings of machinery. A reel is great example of the mechanics I enjoy.
    2 points
  14. Walmarts crafts department has beads cheap
    2 points
  15. 2 points
  16. I'm not much on throwing the C-rig. I find it a pain and would rather just drag a jig, but you might as well just throw it with a split shot if you're gonna do that. I think guys that throw it like the beads knocking into each other, the weight, and the swivel for extra attraction. I wouldn't mess with crimping the line with a bullet weight. Seems like you're asking for trouble, but that's just me.
    2 points
  17. You need special shampoo and that little comb for......... Awe crab lures? well nevermind then. Allen
    2 points
  18. Some baits I did between tournaments. http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m210/EvilZspider/20130413_012701.jpg http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m210/EvilZspider/20130413_004924.jpg http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m210/EvilZspider/img286-1.jpg
    1 point
  19. Lets see how many bass resource hunters there are here. Whats your fav species? Mine is a two way tie between turkeys and whitetails at the moment. I love the action of turkeys but im not a big fan of eating them, love to eat the whitetails.
    1 point
  20. Not when a premier is only a few dollars more
    1 point
  21. no need to be corrected..the internet is a sneaky place, add fish tales in and I believe nothing I read. The pic was sweet tho..too bad it wasnt caught but shocked.
    1 point
  22. 1 point
  23. Just did a little searching..shocked in 2012, fish and game said the fish is 8 lbs..saw a pic and it is a beauty but the 12 lbs is an internet rumor.
    1 point
  24. I guess mono and braid float while flouro sinks that can definitely change the fall rate
    1 point
  25. I pulled all the ShareLunker data from their database and analyzed it. Using your 5 day metric of F +/- 2 days plus N +/- 2 days = 10 days. A lunar cycle is 29.5 days long. Therefore, those 10 lunar days account for 34% of all lunar days. When you sort out the ShareLunker data by moon phase, you find 100 of the 557 ShareLunkers were caught during the 5 day full moon period, and 91 were caught during the 5 day new moon period. That's 191 total ShareLunkers caught during that 10 day metric, out of the 557 ShareLunkers caught, which again gives you 34%, a perfect 1:1 correlation, meaning no full moon/new moon lunar trend whatsoever. The last quarter 5 day period actually has 102 ShareLunkers, just slightly more than the new and full moon periods. The first quarter period only has 76 ShareLunkers. -T9
    1 point
  26. You need to factor in human engineering, there is a reel handle length that is optimal for anglers to turn fast that includes all the factors of how the reel is being used. The first thing that became an after market item for the original 5000 and 5500C reel was a longer reel power handle with gator grips. Why do you think this accessory became essential for bass anglers? Today the reel manufacturers make their reel with handles that are very similar to the after market handles. The human hand can't spin a short reel handle any faster the optimal handle length and the longer handle provided more torque power to retrieve deep diving lures with the most popular gear ratios.Tom
    1 point
  27. One piece of advice. That's tight but I think I can give it a shot. My best piece of advice would be: Cover more water! I find that once you find fish, they are all to ready to bite. You just have to get to where they are. I know this is reverse of what most people say. But I find that only in the worst of conditions do we need to fish slowly to get bites. Many times, we are better apt at discovering those daily patterns or dynamite spots by spending our time looking for fish. Why would you want to spend your time slowly working areas that may not hold a bass when you can quickly fish to find the areas that do. After you have those few bites, then you should slow it down. But I find that most people need to pick up the pace. If you are new to bass fishing, you are fairly apt to be fishing unproductive areas. It takes time to find those great areas or patterns that work well. That is why I support covering more water. You are just more likely to find those productive areas that you can slow down on. Justin Mott
    1 point
  28. Please do me a favor and count the teeth on your main gear and your pinion gear . When you have done that please explain to me how you have changed the teeth count on either gear by changing the length of your handle. Your analogy reminds me of the guy who changed his tire size and thought he changed his rear end gear ratio in his car.....
    1 point
  29. No, it's worth more because it has the longer handle. Remember, I kept the knuckle buster, lol. And I'm not a genius. I just like turning maths into pictures, so managers can understand the numbers.
    1 point
  30. The big one that got away stories would fill a book. Fresh water. The largest would be a sturgeon accidentally hooked in the Green River Utah, over 8' long and simply freight trained down river. 50 lb class class Musky that the lure shook out about 3' from the boat, Height of Land lake, Ont. 20+ lb LMB about 5' from the boat, broke off in some rocks, Castaic lake. Salt water. 700+ lb Blue marlin, hook pull out about 30' from the boat. 15' White shark eat my 150lb class big eye tuna next to the boat. 700-800 lb Mako shark jumped over the stern of the boat and was hooked, but broke off. Tom
    1 point
  31. All I know, is some of you make me feel stupid when it comes to math.
    1 point
  32. Are you suggesting that manufacturers misstate gear ratio? That's NEVER been an issue that I know of. It's IPT that varies. Why? Different spool diameters. So how would this measurement read? How would you know what is better for a particular presentation? How would this "ratio" read? Inches per inches? Aspect, like for tire fitment? I'm sorry, I'm struggling to get where your going here. So, I'll use a real world example - A reel and two handles I own. Zillion TDZLN100SHA Gear ratio: 7.1:1 Line retrieved: 31.6"/turn or ~803 mm/turn Handles: 85mm JDM stock, Hawgtech 94mm straight So with the 85mm handle, the circumference is ~267mm, assuming we're measuring this on the centerline of the knob posts. That's 267:803 With the 94mm handle, that same "ratio" is 295:803. I'm gonna just assume you misspoke, and reverse the two measurements when you made up this ratio, since it's easier for we westerners to read left to right. Reduced to 1, that gives us these stats: 85mm is ~ 3.0:1 94mm is ~ 2.7:1 Okay, we have some numbers. What do these mean? What is more useful about this? Let's assume we go with this as the "new standard" for rating reel retrieve. How do I know which reel is better for burning baits, or for slow rolling a deep diving crankbait? Is the higher number the faster one? Wait, I have to move my hand slower with the higher number, right? Wait, what? Help me out here. Why so serious? Because I feel seriously stupid not being to see why this helps anyone in any way. I'm a Business Intelligence analyst by trade, and data, stats, measurements, and the like are the things I know. Please enlighten. Let me be clear, this isn't a flame war. I'm curious where this helps. Last fact. The difference in travel between the two handles is 1.1 inches. Not much. In fact, I'd be hard pressed that there is any speed advantage, either way. The distance your hand moves is by no means a good measure for efficiency and speed. I play drums, and I can tell you, I can move my hands a lot faster using longer swings than tiny ones. But anyway, the point is that nominal difference has plenty of effect on how the reel feels when used. So much, many have strong opinions on what is better. I don't think your "math" equation helps anyone decide what's better to them.
    1 point
  33. Have parent teacher confrences this after noon or i'd be all over it man! GL
    1 point
  34. I think there is a bigger difference going from a Premier to an Avid than going from an Avid to a LTB. LTB to LE or LX is pretty much unmeasurable. basically, pick what color blank or guides or grip you want and go with that series. there is that little difference between them. Just because the Rage is rolled with the same graphite does not mean it's the same blank as the Avid. I have compared Rage rods to equivalent SCIII blanks and while they may share the mandrel design, SCIII graphite and the St. Croix name, they are NOT the same blank. Even if they were the same blank, the Avid would be worth the extra $50 to not have to deal with those Minima guides!
    1 point
  35. You should expect to see one of the prettiest lakes around! I love to look at all the beautiful homes around the lake! Good luck!
    1 point
  36. Don't take a credit card to BPS or Cabela's.
    1 point
  37. I love the intricate mechanical workings that goes into reels that makes them unique, so I am definitely happier purchasing them. Rods probably matter more for the overall fishing experience though.
    1 point
  38. I'm a reel guy, love upgrading them, but lately I've been getting more into custom rods. Another fun and expensive part of fishing...
    1 point
  39. Well ain't you just a delightful little ray of sunshine today.
    1 point
  40. I heard shaving works.
    1 point
  41. My Brother. He's been called a tool. I have a toolbox with standard and philips screwdrivers, long and short, a nut driver set, a ratchet set, a wrench for the prop, a punch for tapping out the drive pin on my trolling motor, wire cutter/stripper, and several other items that I have needed in the past but didn't have along with extra spare parts like fuses, Trolling Motor rope, drain plug etc. On the deck, I keep a couple long nose pliers, line clippers, braid scissors, jaw spreaders for pike and musky and a hook sharpening stone. Probably forgetting some stuff but my motto is: "Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it."
    1 point
  42. Another testament to the old adage; "You can't fix stupid."
    1 point
  43. Fifteen minutes. If you have waypoints the fish are ALWAYS there SOMETIMES, but not necessarily when YOU are there! The best example is ledge fishing. You need several spots and go back throughout the day. The bad news is they may not be there; the good news is that when you find them, they are ALL THERE!
    1 point
  44. Think of bass as the Andrew Zimmern of fish- if it looks good, they'll eat it. Heck, throw a squido on a shaky head and I bet it catches stuff. It's all about the action and presentation... With a little luck, of course
    1 point
  45. Never be embarrassed to fish with what you have! The important thing is that you get out there and give it your best shot.
    1 point
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